C12 at a glance

Fixing Stage Inspection: what to check on linings, joinery and fit-out

159checks
14sections
3result options
32pages

Start at the desk: read the stage definition, the level of finish and your selections.

Visit 1: after sheeting: frame, sheets, joints, back-blocking, finish and wet areas. Tick Fine, Later (couldn't check) or Issue.

Visit 2: before the claim: outside, tiling, kitchen, doors and floors. Send every Issue in writing. S14 lists what your builder should be doing: ask to see the records.

The 14 sections

  1. S1Before you goFixing stage definition, level of finish, wet-area board and waterproofing system, frame defects fixed, selections, variations13
  2. S2Frame and sheetsFrame within 4 mm under a 1.8 m straightedge, sheet storage and layout, butt joints, board types, fixing spacing, adhesive19
  3. S3Joints, corners and cornicesGaps filled and taped, coats dried, screw heads flat, corner beads, cornices, openings, control joints12
  4. S4Back-blockingCeiling butt joints midway between joists with blocks behind, long-edge joints on Level 5, garage and outdoor ceilings8
  5. S5Finish under normal lightJudged from 1.5 m in normal daylight, Level 5 skim coat where specified, flat ceilings, damage repaired, sealer undercoat8
  6. S6Wet areas before waterproofingWet-area board, noggings for baths, screens and rails, shower wall heights, tap bodies, floor wastes9
  7. S7Eaves and outdoor ceilingsLining material and fixing, straight eaves, bearer sizes, trims and vents, no gaps for water, birds or embers11
  8. S8Downpipes and drainagePlumb and bracketed, connected to stormwater, flexible joint on clay, relief gully height, ground falling away8
  9. S9TilingWaterproofing certificate, selections, falls 1:80–1:50, lippage limits, drummy tiles, grout, movement joints, spare tiles12
  10. S10Kitchen, vanities and laundryBenchtop and cabinets as selected, level and fixed, even gaps, joins and cut-outs, rangehood ducted outside, vanities19
  11. S11Doors, skirtings and robesDoor gaps under 3 mm, under-door gap, latching, sealed edges, cavity sliders, mitres within 1 mm, robes15
  12. S12FloorsHigh and low spots levelled, slab joints marked, timber floor gaps and levels, decks falling away, protection8
  13. S13Damage, clean-up and next stepsNo damage left unreported, site tidy and locked, every fixing item finished, issues sent in writing7
  14. S14What your builder should be doingSite and neighbours, services and drainage, safety inspections, the supervisor's sheeting check, waterproofing certificates, trade damage log10
Short on time? The “Check these 10” card on page 2 has the checks that matter most, and the “Documents to collect” box lists what to ask for. Use it at fixing stage, once plasterboard, joinery, fix-out and tiling are in and before painting. Educational guide only.

Why the Fixing Stage Is Make-or-Break

If your walls are being lined with plasterboard, the kitchen cabinets and vanities are going in and the eaves are going up, you've hit the fixing stage. Here's why it matters:

  • It locks in everything you'll see and touch. Plasterboard hides the frame, cabinets cover service routes, and paint seals it all. Mistakes made now stay with you.
  • It builds on the frame stage. Crooked studs mean crooked plasterboard, and out-of-plumb door openings mean doors that swing open on their own. Level 4 plasterboard only tolerates about 4 mm deviation in the framing, so the frame has to be right before the sheets go on (which is why the frame inspection matters so much).
  • Design decisions show up here. Missed a "glancing light" problem, where low sun skims along a wall or ceiling? You'll see every joint shadow forever. Moving windows once the build has started costs real money, so knowing the pitfalls early pays off.

That's where the C12 Fixing Stage Inspection Checklist comes in. It's a step-by-step guide written for non-builders, mixing physical checks with design notes so you understand why things should be done a certain way.

Where the Fixing Stage Fits in Your Contract

The fixing stage is when the frame gets its interior linings and fittings, including:

  • Gyprock/Plasterboard Installation: The walls and ceilings are lined with plasterboard (also called drywall or gyprock).
  • Joinery & Cabinetry: Kitchen, bathroom vanities, and built-in robes are installed.
  • Eaves & Soffits: The underside of your roof overhang is sealed and finished.
  • Tiling: Wet areas (bathrooms, laundry) get their waterproofing and tiles.
  • Door and Trim Fixing: Doors are hung, and architraves and skirting boards go on.

C12 - Fixing Stage Inspection Checklist

$119.00 AUD

Last updated 28 Oct 2026 · Revision 5 · Free updates for life

Checklist Type: Major (Fixing Stage)

Form Factor: Fillable, print-ready PDF (A4, 40 pages)

When to use: Fixing stage: plasterboard, eaves, joinery, fixout carpentry and tiling

A 159-point fixing stage checklist. Inspect plasterboard, eaves, joinery, doors, skirtings and tiling over two visits, before the stage is signed off.

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Where does it fit among the five contract stages?

It's stage 4 of the 5 standard progress claims in most regulated building contracts (HIA, Master Builders, the QBCC New Home Construction Contract, or your state's equivalent). Each stage is listed below with the matching blog post.

What "Fixing Stage" means in the contract
Fixed in place at Fixing Stage
Internal linings, architraves, cornices and skirtings
Doors to rooms
Baths, shower trays and wet area tiling
Built-in shelves, cabinets and cupboards
Only minor defects or omissions may remain

Paraphrased from the HIA contract definition of Fixing Stage.

QBCC New Home Contract excerpt on Progress Payments

Progress payment stages (Queensland new home contract, Option A)
StageShare of contract price
Deposit5%
Base15%
Frame20%
Enclosed25%
Fixing20%
Practical Completion15%

From the QBCC New Home Construction Contract, Schedule Item 8A. Claims must match work actually done; deposit plus claims cannot pass 50% of the price until more than 50% of the work is done. Option B lets the parties set other stages.

Some context around progress claims and payments

Progress claim timings in the QBCC contract
StepTiming or form
Builder claims a stageForm 3 Progress Claim, with Form 4 for any dispute
Practical Completion claimAlso needs Form 6 and Form 7
Owner paysWithin 5 business days (PC stage per Condition 28.6)
Owner disputes a claimWritten notice within 5 business days
Dispute not settledAfter 5 more business days it goes to the dispute process (Condition 25)
Late payment interest6% above the RBA cash rate target
VariationsIn writing (Form 5 or similar) before the work starts; signed copy within 5 business days

Summarised in our words from the QBCC New Home Construction Contract (July 2023), Conditions 19 to 21.

💡
Here are our previous blog posts on each stage.
Each post walks through its checklist and links to a free preview.

1️⃣ Base / Slab Stage

Concrete slab, or bearers and joists, go down.

C5 Pre-Pour Slab Inspection Checklist Explained
The C5 Pre-Pour Slab Inspection Checklist is exactly that. A detailed stage inspection checklist to ensure quality and compliance before concrete is poured on your site.
C6 Concrete Slab Inspection Checklist for Homeowners
Learn how to use the post-pour concrete slab inspection checklist to check for compliance, surface finishes and generally manage your site to ensure its ready for framing to start.

2️⃣ Frame Stage

Timber or steel frame and roof trusses go up.

C7 Timber Frame Checklist Explained
Learn how the C7 Timber Frame Stage Inspection Checklist supports managing quality for the frame stage of construction. Understand technical terms, issues, and get an thorough understanding of how to manage quality for this stage of construction.

3️⃣ Enclosed / Lock-Up Stage

Roof on, windows in, external doors locked. Weather (and people) shouldn't get inside.

Enclosed Stage Checklist for New Home Builds
If you’re building a new home, knowing what to check at the “enclosed” stage is important. In this post we give you a super detailed “overview” (grab a coffee or three) of our C11 Enclosed Stage Checklist, helping you check for quality at the enlcosed stage of construction.

4️⃣ Fixing Stage

Our focus today. Internal linings, cornices, doors, skirtings, cabinets, tiles and eaves: a big chunk of the work, which is why this progress claim is one of the largest.

5️⃣ Practical Completion / Handover

Final paint, appliances installed, house cleaned. You grab the keys.

Why does the fixing stage matter more than the others?

  • It's typically the second-biggest progress claim. Standard contracts usually put the fixing stage at around 20% of the contract price, second only to the enclosed stage at about 25%.
  • Defects can get hidden. Once plaster, paint and joinery go in, you can’t see framing, service routes or moisture barriers without ripping things apart.
  • It sets the feel of your home. Architraves, skirtings, doors, tiles and joinery (vanities, cabinets and benchtops) are what you'll look at and use every day.

In short, the fixing stage is your last real chance to catch quality issues before they're sealed in, and before your leverage (progress payments) shrinks to the final 15% practical completion claim.


The C12 Fixing Stage Checklist

The C12 Fixing Stage Checklist is a homeowner-friendly mash-up of the National Construction Code, Australian Standards and manufacturers' installation guides, plus our own quality inspection items for each part of the stage.

We've distilled it into one easy-to-scan PDF so you don't have to juggle three standards and a folder of brochures on site. Yes, it's a chonker, but you don't have to tackle it in one sitting or one site visit.

Why Our Construction Checklists Are So Detailed
Yes, our checklists are long—and that’s on purpose. We’re building tools that actually help you spot the issues, ask the right questions, and hold your builder to standard. This is just the beginning. Here’s why the details matter—and where we’re heading next.

Chonky is our checklists - by design, this is why

Here’s how it’s put together:

  • 44 bite-sized sections. They follow the order you naturally walk the house: outside with site tidiness first, then plasterboard, wet areas, eaves, flooring, joinery, fix-out and tiling.
  • Traffic-light columns. Beside every line you tick OK, Delay, or Issue + Follow-Up, so you can see at a glance what's outstanding when you come back.
  • Bold red items = deal-breakers. Anything in bold red can cost you serious money or void a warranty: think back-blocking on ceilings, moisture-resistant board in bathrooms, or downlight clearance from insulation (a fire and insurance issue).
  • Photo and NCR prompts. Each page reminds you to snap a photo the moment you spot an issue and note the image reference next to the item. If the builder pushes back, you've got time-stamped evidence for a Non-Conformance Report (NCR), a written record of work that doesn't meet the contract or standards.

What Gets Checked: The Big-Picture Overview

The C12 PDF has 44 sections, but they funnel into five main inspection areas.

1. Plasterboard and Paint

This is where walls and ceilings earn their keep. Section 4 explains why the standard Level 4 finish depends on the right framing, board installation and joint finishing. Skip any of it and glancing light will show every flaw. Sections 8, 9, 11 and 12 cover sheet layout, joint orientation, back-blocking and finish levels, so every surface is flat and ready for the painter's magic.

2. Eaves

Section 27 covers the linings under your roof overhang. Poor fixings or the wrong framing spacing here and sheets sag, joints split, and storm-driven rain finds its way in.

3. Downpipes

Section 30 checks that downpipes are installed properly and connected to stormwater, to prevent soil movement and subsidence later. Who'd have thought there were so many things to check on a humble downpipe? No stone left unturned.

4. Joinery & Fix-Out Carpentry

Sections 31 and 32 cover doors, skirtings, architraves and cabinets, the finishing touches you'll see (and slam) every day. The checklist looks for even reveals, plumb cupboard carcasses, hinges that line up and skirtings that actually meet the wall.

5. Ceramic Tile Installation

Section 33 is a general inspection of the tiling. Our C14 Ceramic Tile Design and Installation Checklist does the deep dive.

Here we check substrate flatness, lippage (uneven heights between tiles), grout line consistency, detailing and finishing: the overall look of the tiling and compliance with AS 3958.1.

Next, the ten must-check items that give you the most bang for your inspection buck.


The 10 Must-Check Items, Mapped to the C12 Checklist

Here are the ten highest-stakes checks, each labelled with its C12 section number. On inspection day I tick these first, snap photos, and raise an Issue + Follow-Up on the spot if anything's off.

  1. S04: Paint Selection and Level 4 Finish
    Why it matters: Level 4 is the default finish in Aussie homes. It relies on the right sealer, joint compound and two solid top coats. Cheap primer or the wrong sheen shows every screw pop the moment sunlight skims the wall.
  2. S08: Sheet Orientation and Layout
    Why it matters: Horizontal sheets on walls, and ceiling joints running with the light, help hide seams and prevent cracks.
  3. S11 to S12: Finish Level Verification
    Why it matters: Level 4 suits most rooms. Level 5 (a full skim coat) is needed on raked ceilings or feature walls hit by glancing light. Level 5 must be written into the specification and contract, so the right materials are supplied, the trades know where it applies, and they're paid to do it.
  4. S22: Back-Blocking
    Why it matters: Back-blocks are strips of plasterboard glued behind ceiling butt joints to stop cracking as the house moves. Some crews leave them out to save time.
    Quick check: Look through a downlight hole or the manhole into the ceiling space. You should see 200 mm wide plasterboard straps glued across each butt joint.
  5. S27: Eaves Materials
    Why it matters: Eaves linings cop wind, moisture and heat. A poorly ventilated roof space can cause plasterboard problems over time. Vented eaves sheeting and roof vents help, and there should be enough vents for cross-ventilation of the roof space.
  6. S28: Timber Floor Substrate Preparation
    Why it matters: If sheet flooring isn't flat and dry before carpet or other flooring is laid, you'll battle squeaks and bumps.
    Quick check: Roll a marble across the floor; it shouldn't race to one corner. Moisture readings should be below the manufacturer's limit (often 14% or less). Nails and screws should sit below the surface, and sheet joints should be flat.
  7. S30: Downpipes and Stormwater Connection
    Why it matters: Downpipes must connect to the stormwater system, not dump water on the ground next to the slab, where it causes the soil to swell and shrink. How much your soil moves depends on its type, and clay loves to swell.
  8. S31: Joinery Installation
    Why it matters: Crooked cabinets and uneven door gaps scream cheap build and are painful to fix once benchtops and splashbacks are in.
    Quick check: Put a spirit level on benchtops and doors. Door gaps should be a consistent 2 to 3 mm from top to bottom.
  9. S32: Fix-Out Carpentry
    Why it matters: Skirtings, architraves and mouldings frame every room. Watch for badly cut or unglued mitres, poor scribing and bruised moulding profiles. Nails fired through the rounded part of a moulding make the painter's job much harder.
    Quick check: Run a finger along the mitres; no daylight should show. Nail heads should be punched below the surface, not proud of it.
  10. S33: Ceramic Tile Installation Quality
    Why it matters: Lippage, poor falls to the floor waste, bad edge finishing and pinholes in grout leave you with puddles and stubbed toes. Unarrised (sharp) edges on porcelain tiles are dangerous. I always check porcelain corners closely in wet areas, because they're nasty if someone slips near one.

How to Use the Checklist Without Getting Lost

Now for how to inspect efficiently, even if you've never set foot on a building site. Read the checklist before you go and flag what you'll check this visit and what you'll leave for later.

This isn't a one-sitting exercise. Treat the checklist as à la carte: when an item is ready for inspection, be on site for it. Save your energy so you get to handover without burning yourself out.

Step 1: Get your tools sorted before you leave home

  • Tablet or phone with the checklist pre-loaded. Mark-ups are easier if you can scribble directly on the PDF.
  • Torch for cupboards, the roof space and plasterboard checks. Shadows, and no lights wired up yet, make inspections harder.
  • Measuring tools: tape measure, a metal ruler (handy as a small straight edge), a 1.8 m spirit level or straight edge, and a small steel square for checking external corners.
  • CINS numbering and painter's tape or sticky labels. Great for flagging defects the supervisor can't unsee, and for adding context to photos (a number in the photo links it to a checklist item, description and notes).
  • Trades love to pull masking tape off once you've left. The fix is contextualised photos. Our CINS numbering is simple, but you'll rarely see anything like it on a building site. Most builders run tight programs, and labelled photos rarely make it into their quality systems. That's why I do it myself.
CINS and Quality Checklists Explained
Learn how the Constructor CINS system integrates with stage quality management checklists to improve tracking, communication, and resolution of construction quality issues.

Oh, the CINS of your builder.

Step 2: Walk in the order the checklist is written

Start at S01 and work down. If a trade is in the way, tick Delay and come back before you leave or on the next visit. Put follow-ups and reminders in your calendar before you leave site. It's too easy to get distracted once you're out of the zone.

Step 3: Prioritise the bold red items

Anything in bold red in the PDF is a deal-breaker. Check these first.

Step 4: Use the traffic lights

  • OK means done and dusted.
  • Delay means “can’t verify yet; revisit.”
  • Issue + Follow-Up means you’ve found a defect. Tick it, then…

Step 5: Snap, tag, move on

Take a clear photo of the problem with something for scale (a tape or your hand). Name it S27-IMG003.jpg or similar so you can match it to the checklist later, and write the file name next to the line item. If you're really swanky, use an audit app like Site Report Pro.

Step 6: Raise an NCR on the spot

If you've ticked Issue + Follow-Up, go to the NCR page at the back, write a one-liner ("S31: base cabinets out of level 6 mm") and attach your photo. Builders act faster when the paperwork hits their inbox before they drive away.


What Happens After the Fixing Stage?

Once fix-out is finished, the painters work their magic. Light-coloured paint makes rooms suddenly look bigger, even though the walls haven't moved an inch. Then come the fit-offs, and the final lap to Practical Completion (PC). Here's what to expect:

  1. Fit-Off Frenzy
    Electricians, plumbers and installers fit light fittings, taps, appliances, door hardware, shower screens, mirrors and robes. A quick walk-around with your phone on each visit prevents "mystery damage" debates later. Take photos; don't trust your memory, it's not your friend.
  2. Final Clean & QA
    Once fit-off is complete, the builder organises a builders’ clean and performs an internal quality audit. This is their chance to catch paint misses, silicone gaps and alignment issues.
  3. Practical Completion Inspection
    You're invited to the PC walkthrough (sometimes called the PCI). Bring our C16 Practical Completion Inspection checklist, your annotated C12, a highlighter and a charged phone (you'll use the torch a lot). Anything outstanding goes on the PC defect list.
    1. It’s important to remember that the PCI inspection is a key contract stage—don’t rush it. Booking the removalists or pushing for hand-over just to “get the build over the line” is tempting, but this isn’t the moment to squeak things through. Once the house is handed over, getting PCI items fixed becomes far harder. Make sure every line on the PCI sheet is completed, checked, and signed off before hand-over.
  4. Touch-Up and Defect Rectification
    The builder's trades come back to fix and patch what you flagged at the PCI walkthrough.
  5. Handover
    When you and the builder are both happy, you sign the PCI form (and sometimes a handover form), pay the final claim, and receive the keys and warranty documents. Our C17 Handover Stage checklist lists the documents to collect. From practical completion, your 12-month defects liability period starts under your contract (QBCC contract GC 29.1 / Master Builders Level 2 cl 19), and most builders book a 6-month maintenance inspection within it. The statutory warranty for structural defects (6 years in Queensland, backed by QBCC home warranty insurance for 6 years and 6 months) also runs. Other states vary.
  6. 6 Month Maintenance
    Keep every document (checklists, photos, NCRs, emails, notes, the final defect list and invoices) in one folder or cloud drive. At the six-month maintenance stage (our C18 checklist helps you prepare your list), you'll probably deal with someone new who knows nothing about your build. Having the receipts ready makes those conversations faster and far less stressful. Defects that show up after the 6-month inspection can still be reported in writing up to 12 months after practical completion.

Conclusion: Leverage, Peace of Mind and a Better-Built Home

Fresh paint, shiny hinges and tidy skirtings can lull anyone into approving the second-largest progress claim too early. The C12 Fixing Stage Checklist cuts through the gloss and shows you what matters and where to look.

Walk the checklist in order, tag your photos, raise NCRs on the spot, and get every "Delay" and "Issue + Follow-Up" closed out, or formally disputed, before you pay the claim.


Test yourself

Five quick questions on this topic. Click a question to see the answer.

What is the requirement for floor tile grout in terms of its finish?

It must be uniform in colour, smooth, without voids, pinholes or low spots.

What is the recommended distance for sheet joints from the edge of openings like doorways and windows?

A minimum of 200mm.

What type of fasteners should be used when fixing Gyprock plasterboard to timber treated with copper-based compounds?

Hot-dip galvanised clouts or class 3 screws.

What is the required width for cutback-blocks in single layer systems?

At least 200mm.

How should downpipes be installed to ensure they are securely fixed?

Use sufficient standoff brackets.

FAQs: Quick Answers to Common Fixing-Stage Questions

Q1. Do I still need a professional building inspector if I use the C12 checklist?
A: Yes, ideally. The checklist is homeowner-friendly, but a good inspector knows where work typically falls short of the standard, and that only comes with experience. Many owners do their own walk-through, then pay an independent inspector for a second sweep before paying the claim.

Our view: use an independent inspector (not one chosen by your builder) on every build. An informed owner gets better results too. Once a builder sees you're paying attention, they tend to lift their game. The goal isn't confrontation, it's informed conversations that lead to a better-built home. We'd also like to see council inspections of critical stages brought back, as explained in the posts below.

Bring Back Council Inspections for New Homes
Construction defects are rising in Australia—and one big reason is that no one’s watching the work when it matters. In this post we make the case for bringing back mandatory local council inspections to restore trust, quality, and accountability in new home builds.

Yes, this is a sad builder because he lost his site diary and now needs to prove his quality management system and can't. Diaries are not quality management systems. They are time management devices.

Demand Better: Accountability in Australian Home Building
We’ve grown accustomed to flashy kitchens and sleek “hamptons style” façades, but what about the hidden quality issues? In this article we discuss why Australian builders and their directors must be held accountable for delivering healthier, more durable homes beyond mere compliance.

Q2. Can I hold payment if defects aren't fixed?
A:
Under the QBCC New Home Construction Contract (and most HIA and Master Builders contracts), a stage is only complete when the work for that stage is finished in line with the contract. If you believe the stage isn't complete, don't just stop paying. Dispute the progress claim in writing within the time the contract allows, listing the incomplete or defective work. Simply not paying without a written notice can put you in breach of the contract. Read your contract's progress payment clause before the claim lands.

Better still, sort this out before you sign. Ask your builder:

  • “How will defects be resolved during a stage?”
  • “What’s the process and time frame from identification to completion?”
  • “Who’s involved?”
  • “Is there an escalation path if I’m not satisfied?”

Knowing the process up front prevents surprises, and arguments, later.

For more due-diligence questions, see our C4 Asking the Right Questions (Choosing Your Builder) checklist.

Questions to Ask When Choosing a Builder
Hiring the right builder is essential for a successful project. In this post, we discuss our “Qualify Your Builder” checklist. These questions will help you assess a builder’s experience, quality practices, & project management skills, so you can make an informed decision before signing a contract.

Q3. What's the difference between Level 4 and Level 5 finishes?
A: Level 4 is two coats over joints, the standard for bedrooms and living areas. Level 5 adds a skim coat over the entire surface, used on feature walls or raked ceilings where glancing light shows up imperfections.

Q4. How do I spot glancing light issues?
A: Shine a torch along the wall surface, or visit late in the day when the sun hits at a low angle. Shadows around screws or joints mean extra sanding, or even a Level 5 skim, may be needed. Remember, Level 4 is the standard, and it's normally assessed looking straight at the surface from a set distance (see the diagram below), not with a torch held flat to the wall.

Section through a room showing a person standing about 1500 mm from the wall at normal eye height, looking at the wall and ceiling lining, not with a torch skimming along the wall.
Inspection of plasterboard - front on and 1500mm away from surfaceFiC12F

Q5. My builder says back-blocking (S22) isn't necessary. Is that true?
A: Generally, no. Plasterboard manufacturers' installation guides and AS/NZS 2589 call for back-blocking on Level 4 ceiling and wall installations, unless a suspended ceiling system is used. Ask your builder to show you, in writing, the manufacturer's guidance that says otherwise.

Plasterboard level of finish
LevelMax frame deviationBack-blockingJointing (minimum)
34 mmNot requiredTape coat + second coat
4 (normal for homes)4 mmCeiling butt and recessed joints, wall butt jointsTape, second and finish coats
53 mmCeiling joints and wall butt jointsTape, second and finish coats plus a skim coat over the whole surface

Summarised in our words from the Gyprock (CSR) Red Book level of finish table. Tiled or fire-rated walls are screw/nail fixed only, no adhesive. Fastener-only fixing is not allowed on unseasoned timber.

Q6. Can I customise the checklist for my project?
A: Absolutely. Add notes, extra rows or highlights for items unique to your build, such as stone benchtops or feature timber ceilings.

Q7. The supervisor wants to "walk and talk" without paperwork. Good idea?
A: Friendly chats are great, but always record the outcome in writing: an email, an NCR or a checklist comment. Memories fade; photos and paperwork don't.

Q8. What should I keep after handover in case something fails later?
A: Your annotated C12, all NCRs, photos (with CINS numbers), the final defect list, emails and paid invoices, all in one digital folder. They're gold if you ever need to make a warranty claim.


Further Reading