Preview C9

The roof is one of the most important parts of your home to get right, and one of the hardest to check once it's finished. Small mistakes in flashing, gutters or tile fixing turn into water damage and expensive repairs down the line.

That's where our C9 Tile Roof, Box Gutter, and Flashing Inspection Checklist comes in. It's written for homeowners new to construction, so you can spot quality issues early and check your roof against the National Construction Code (NCC) and the relevant Australian Standards. Below I break it down into plain-English steps, explain the technical terms, and cover the common problems I see on site.

C9 at a glance

Tile Roof Inspection: what to check on the tiles, gutters and flashings

94checks
11sections
3result options
21pages

Before you go (S1). Find your wind class and BAL, and ask the tiler for photos and a fixing statement.

Outside (S2 to S7). From the ground, then a ladder at the eaves. Stay off the tiles. Tick Fine, Later (not yet) or Issue.

Inside (S8 to S10). Look up into the roof space before the ceilings are lined, ideally after rain. S11 lists what your builder should be doing: ask to see the records.

The 11 sections

  1. S1Before you goTile make and batch, wind class, BAL, tank water, solar brackets, written fixing statement, tiler's photos, safe viewing9
  2. S2From the groundStraight courses, no cracked or odd-colour tiles, straight ridges and barges, gutters, downpipe every 12 m, no debris10
  3. S3At the eaves35 mm tile overhang, sarking into the gutter, anti-ponding board, eaves comb or ember guard, gutter fall, brackets, overflow11
  4. S4Tile fixingFixing to the wind class tables, N1–N3 fixing patterns, a design above N3, fixing type and corrosion rating, cut tiles fixed9
  5. S5Ridges, hips and bargesBedding and flexible pointing or dry ridge, caps mechanically fixed, laps away from the wind, end caps, barge tiles7
  6. S6ValleysPitch over 12.5 degrees, valley board support, tiles cut 75–100 mm apart, 15 mm freeboard, cut tiles fixed, clear of debris8
  7. S7FlashingsApron flashings 75 mm up and 150 mm over tiles, dressed to profile, overflashing, 75 mm laps, pipe flashings, no lead8
  8. S8Roof spaceSarking where required, AS 4200.1 label, 150 mm laps, sag under 40 mm, no tears, battens fixed, no cut trusses, no leaks11
  9. S9Box guttersBox gutter design on the plans, fall with no low spots, rainhead or sump overflow, sole board support, sealed joints, outlets6
  10. S10Clean-up and sign-offSpare tiles left on site, site and gutters cleared, tiler's photos and fixing statement, compliance certificate, your list5
  11. S11What your builder should be doingSediment control, signs and toilet, services undamaged, site drainage, edge protection or scaffold, spare tiles, certificates10
Short on time? The “Check these 10” card on page 2 has the checks that matter most, and the “Documents to collect” box lists what to ask for. Use it once the tiles, gutters and flashings are on, before the roof tiler leaves site. Educational guide only; stay off the roof unless you have safe access.

Understanding the Checklist

Here’s an in-depth look at its structure and how to use it effectively:

Overview of the Checklist

Roofing is a process involving multiple components that need to work together. The checklist is designed to:

  • Help you identify potential quality issues early.
  • Ensure compliance with Australian Standards, the NCC, and standard building practices.
  • Save time and money by catching problems before they escalate.

The checklist is divided into sections, each covering one part of the roof: roof finish, sarking/anticon, battens, fasteners, hips and valleys, bedding and pointing, guttering, downpipes, box gutters and flashings. Working through it in order means nothing gets missed.

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AS 4200.2 mandates the proper placement of sarking to enhance thermal performance and prevent water ingress—inspect early to avoid costly fixes.

C9 - Tile Roof, Box Gutter and Flashing Inspection Checklist

$59.00 AUD

Last updated 28 Oct 2026 · Revision 4 · Free updates for life

Checklist Type: Minor

Form Factor: Fillable, print-ready PDF (A4, 26 pages)

When to use: Roofing stage (tile roof), before the linings go in

A 94-point checklist for tiled roofs. Check the tiles, fixing, valleys, flashings, gutters and sarking before the ceilings are lined, when problems are easier to fix.

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How to Use the Checklist

  1. Step-by-Step Inspection: Start at the beginning and work through each section. The checklist guides you through key inspection points, ensuring each element of the roof is installed correctly. Example: Begin with Site Management, checking for erosion controls and sediment fences, before progressing to detailed roofing elements like roof finish, sarking, gutters, bedding and pointing.
  2. Documenting observations: take clear photos of each element, note any issues against the matching checklist item, and tag your photos and notes with the checklist item numbers (CINS) so they're easy to find later.
  3. Tracking progress: mark items that meet the standard as "OK", use an arrow ("→") for items delayed by weather or access, and cross and note items needing correction under "Follow-Up".

This structured approach simplifies communication with contractors and ensures all parties are on the same page.

💡
Meeting the requirements of AS 3566.1 (corrosion resistance) for fasteners isn’t just best practice—it’s the difference between a secure roof and a vulnerable one.
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Why Inspections Matter

  1. Defect prevention: small errors like poorly installed flashing or unsecured tiles let water in, leading to mould, rot and structural damage. Catch them early and they're cheap to fix.
  2. Compliance: inspections confirm the roof meets the NCC and the Australian Standards it references, which reduces the risk of disputes and insurance problems later.
  3. Cost and time: fixing problems during construction is far cheaper than fixing them after handover, and it avoids delays later in the build.
💡
The NCC mandates adequate overflow measures for box gutters. Ignoring this can result in internal flooding during heavy rainfall.

Common Roofing Issues Identified in Inspections

  1. Water ingress: often caused by poorly sealed flashing or box gutters without enough fall. It can do serious damage to the interior and the structure.
  2. Swarf and incompatible materials: swarf (metal shavings from cutting and drilling) left on the roof rusts and stains roof sheets and flashings. Incompatible metals in contact cause galvanic corrosion, where one metal corrodes to protect the other (explained below).
  3. Box gutter overflow: not enough fall, or no overflow, lets water pool and spill into the building, damaging ceilings and walls.
  4. Sealant failures: the wrong sealant, or sealant applied badly, leads to leaks over time.
💡
What Is Galvanic Action?

Galvanic action, also known as galvanic corrosion, occurs when two dissimilar metals come into contact in the presence of an electrolyte, such as water. This creates an electrochemical reaction where one metal (the anode) corrodes or "sacrifices" itself to protect the other metal (the cathode).

How It Happens:
1. Dissimilar Metals: When metals like steel, zinc, or copper are in contact, their differing electrochemical properties can create a small electric current.
2. Electrolyte: Moisture or condensation acts as a conductor, completing the circuit and allowing corrosion to begin.
3. Corrosion: Over time, the anode metal degrades while the cathode remains intact.

Roof tie-down: why your wind classification matters

Tie-down (fixing) of the tiles and the roof structure resists wind uplift during storms. Without it, tiles get blown off, and in the worst case the whole roof can lift. Tile fixing must suit your site's wind classification and comply with AS 2050, the roof tile standard.

How Is Wind Classification Determined?

Wind classifications, as per AS 4055, are based on factors including:

  • Region: Australia's wind regions (A to D) specify the likelihood of cyclonic or high-wind events.
  • Site Conditions: Terrain roughness, shielding from nearby structures, and topography (e.g., hills or open plains).
  • Building Height and Location: Taller or exposed buildings are subject to higher wind forces.

The classification system ranges from N1 (low wind areas) to N6 (high wind areas) and C1 to C4 (cyclonic regions), with higher numbers indicating stronger wind forces.

How Tie-Fixing Differs by Wind Classification

Tile fixing depends on your wind classification, roof pitch and tile type. As a general guide, the higher the wind classification, the more tiles get mechanically fixed (clipped or screwed), with extra fixing at edges, ridges, hips and corners where uplift is strongest. In cyclonic regions (C1 to C4) every tile is mechanically fixed and the roof structure gets heavier tie-downs back to the walls. For your actual site, check the fixing table in AS 2050 (like the one below) or the tile manufacturer's fixing guide.

Flow diagram showing how wind region, terrain, shielding and topography combine into a site wind classification (N1 to N6 or C1 to C4), which sets the fixings and tie-downs.
Different locations around AU all have different wind regions. Then a wind classification is determined - which affects tie down (materials = labour costs) for your new home
Tile fixing by wind classification
Wind classEdges of roofField of roofRidge, hip and barge
N1, N2Every tile in the 2nd course, then every 2nd tile in every course (or every tile in alternate courses)Same as edgesEvery tile
N3Every tile in the 2nd courseEvery 2nd tile in every courseEvery tile
N4 to N6Every tileEvery tileEvery tile
C1Every tileEvery 2nd tile in every courseEvery tile
C2, C3Every tileEvery tileEvery tile

"Fixed" means mechanically fixed (nailed, screwed or clipped). Summarised from NCC 2022 Volume Two Table 3.5.2.1 (now Housing Provisions). Check the current edition.

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Read more on the 5 factors that determine the wind classification for homes

Wind Classification to AS 4055 Calculator – Excelo Consulting Engineers
Excelo Consulting Engineers

This is a handy calculator. Note:You should always have someone else determine this rating (like your builder or an engineer). If you bugger it up, you will be liable. Use this as a reference to help qualify information, unless your happy to assume the liability.

Key Areas Covered by the Checklist

Here's what the checklist covers, section by section.

Two sections of a tiled roof: a clip hooked over a tile edge and nailed to the batten, and an eaves clip holding the tail of the bottom tile, fixed to the fascia or eaves batten.
Roof tile clip types

Tile Roof Installation

  1. Fasteners: fasteners must meet AS 3566.1 for corrosion resistance. Where screws with sealing washers are used, they should be tightened just enough to seal: over-tightening damages the material, under-tightening leaks.
  2. Laying of tiles: tiles should sit flush and aligned in their grooves and notches on the battens. The first course should project about 50mm over the fascia so water drops into the gutter. Fixing must suit the site's wind classification (see above).
  3. Hips and valleys: leave a gap of 75 to 100mm between the tiles either side of a valley so water can drain. In high-rainfall or windy areas, use storm seals or foam valley inserts to keep wind-driven rain out.
  4. Ridges: ridge tiles should run straight along the roof line, lapped away from the prevailing wind, and be finished with flexible pointing.
  5. Barges: barge boards should be flush with the tile battens, with bedding strips extending 19 to 25mm for a neat finish, and the barge ends sealed against water.
  6. Securing tiles: all cut tiles, particularly in valleys and at roof edges, must be clipped or fixed so wind can't shift them. Tiles on pitches above 70 degrees need double mechanical fixing.

Ensure valleys are free from debris, tile offcuts, or mortar, as these can obstruct water flow.

💡
SA HB39 advises using neutral-cure silicone for flashings to prevent material degradation and ensure a watertight seal.

Guttering, Downpipes, and Sealants

  1. Guttering: eaves gutters need a minimum fall of 1:500. Overflow measures such as slotted gutters, overflow slots or stand-off brackets stop water backing up into the house in heavy rain. Gutter joints should be riveted and sealed with a neutral-cure silicone. Sealant breaks down in the sun over time, so check the joints at your 6-month maintenance inspection (C18) and every so often after that.
  2. Downpipes: downpipe size and spacing are calculated from the roof catchment area and local rainfall intensity under AS/NZS 3500.3. As a rule of thumb, allow a downpipe at least every 12m of eaves gutter. Keep them clear of windows, air-conditioning units and taps, and check temporary downpipes are connected during construction to manage stormwater.
  3. Sealants: use a neutral-cure silicone compatible with the roofing material (ZINCALUME® or galvanised steel), applied in a continuous bead and compressed enough to form a watertight bond.
Four steps for sizing gutters and downpipes (roof catchment, design rainfall, gutter size, downpipes), next to an illustrative chart showing how to read the gutter size from a rainfall line.
Downpipe sizing chart. Depending on the roof catchment area and rainfall intensity of your site location determines the down pipe size.
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AS 3500.3 requires box gutters to maintain a minimum fall of 1:200 to ensure effective water flow—check this during every inspection.

Box Gutters

  • Ensure a minimum fall of 1:200 to prevent water pooling.
  • Install overflow devices such as high-capacity rainheads or sump channels to handle excess water during storms. This is another design and construction area often poorly done.
  • Verify that box gutters are fabricated from compatible, corrosion-resistant materials.

Ensuring box gutter design compliance requires attention to detail and adherence to Australian Standards. Unfortunately, many installed systems are non-compliant and not designed in accordance with these requirements.

DamBusters has created "standard" overflows and box gutter solutions, collaborating with builders and designers to ensure roof water systems and box gutters are both compliant with standards and function effectively. Their product line provides valuable insight into the complexity of achieving compliance, especially when compared to non-compliant solutions that may prioritise aesthetics over functionality.

Below is an overview of their offerings.

Flashings

  1. Types: apron flashing (where the roof meets a vertical wall), soaker flashing (under the roof covering, typically around chimneys and penetrations), transverse flashing (across the roof slope, for example where the top of a roof meets a wall) and parapet capping (on top of parapet walls).
  2. Installation: flashings should overlap by at least 75mm, include anti-capillary breaks, be compatible with the roof cladding to avoid corrosion, and be sealed with continuous beads of compatible sealant.
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Technical Terms Simplified

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AS 4200.2 specifies sarking must be installed with overlaps of at least 150mm to act as a reliable secondary barrier against water ingress.

Sarking

Sarking is a reflective, pliable membrane installed beneath roof tiles or sheets. It acts as a secondary waterproof barrier, protecting your home from moisture and dust while also improving insulation by reflecting heat.

Why It Matters: Properly installed sarking prevents water ingress during heavy rain and helps maintain a consistent indoor temperature.

Section down the slope of a tiled roof at the eave, showing sarking over the rafters and under the tile battens, running over an anti-ponding board and lapping into the gutter.
The antiponding board depends on eaves or no eaves and your roof pitch. The 25-50mm overlap is the part often done wrong onsite

Anti-Ponding Board

An anti-ponding board is a flat strip of material placed under the roof’s edge, near the gutter, to prevent water from pooling on the sarking.

Why It Matters: Without anti-ponding boards, water can accumulate and cause the sarking to sag or fail, leading to leaks.

Flashing

Flashing refers to thin sheets of metal or other waterproof materials used to seal gaps around roof penetrations, such as chimneys, vents, or where the roof meets a vertical wall.

Why It Matters: Correctly installed flashing prevents water from seeping into your home through vulnerable areas.

Box Gutters

A box gutter is a rectangular, internal gutter system designed to collect rainwater from roofs and direct it to downpipes or stormwater systems.

Why It Matters: Box gutters must have sufficient gradient and overflow measures to handle heavy rainfall without causing water ingress or structural damage.

Section across a box gutter between two roof slopes, showing the gutter sole on a full-length support sheet carried by adjustable brackets hung from trimmers, with the roof covering turned down into the gutter.
Box gutter

Valley

The valley is the internal angle formed where two roof slopes meet. It channels water down to the gutter system.

Why It Matters: Proper clearance between tiles and a clear valley are essential to ensure water drains efficiently.

Section across a tiled roof valley: a valley tray with turned-up edges sits on valley boards, and the cut tiles sit on battens and overhang the tray, leaving a 75 to 100 mm open gap between the tile ends.
Valley construction and flashing

Flexible Pointing

Flexible pointing is a weatherproof adhesive applied to secure ridge and hip tiles to the roof.

Why It Matters: It provides a durable, long-lasting bond that accommodates roof movement caused by temperature changes or settling.

Section across a tiled roof ridge showing the capping tile on bedding directly underneath, clear of the roof tiles, with the gap each side filled with pointing troweled off.
Tiled roof with ridge, pointing and bedding underneath. The small holes are ridge tile screw holes to lock them in location and preventing slippage over time.

Ridge and Hip Tiles

Ridge tiles run along the highest point of the roof, while hip tiles cover the external angles where roof slopes meet.

Why It Matters: These tiles must be securely fastened and aligned to protect the roof’s structure and ensure an aesthetically pleasing finish.

Section across a tiled ridge: the capping sits on bedding directly under it and stays clear of the roof tiles, with pointing troweled off in the gap each side; plus a hip seen from above with cut tiles, hip capping and a hip end cap.
Ridge and hip tile construction details: check bedding, pointing and fixings against these.

Neutral-Cure Sealant

A type of silicone sealant that does not release acidic substances during curing, making it safe for use with metal roofing materials like ZINCALUME® or galvanised steel.

Why It Matters: Using the wrong sealant can cause corrosion or inadequate sealing, leading to leaks.

Gradient

The slope of a roof or gutter system, usually expressed as a ratio (e.g., 1:500).

Why It Matters: Adequate gradient ensures water flows efficiently, preventing pooling and overflow issues.

Overflow Measures

These are features such as rainheads, high-flow slots, or scuppers designed to manage excess water during heavy rain.

Why It Matters: Without overflow measures, gutters can flood, leading to backflow into the house and structural damage.

Using the checklist on your build

Tips for Effective Use

  1. Start Early
    Begin inspections as soon as construction or roofing work starts. Early checks allow you to catch potential issues before they escalate, saving time and money.Example: Check the installation of sarking and anti-ponding boards before tiles are laid. Ensuring these elements are correct from the start can prevent water pooling or leaks later.
  2. Inspect in phases
    Line your inspections up with construction milestones: pre-installation (site preparation, sarking and battens), mid-installation (tile placement, flashing and gutters) and post-installation (sealants, tile fixing and overall drainage).
  3. Document everything
    Take photos at each inspection, especially of valleys, box gutters and flashing, and record each item on the checklist as "OK", "Delayed" or needing follow-up.
  4. Collaborate with Contractors
    Share your findings with your contractor as soon as possible. Prompt communication ensures issues are addressed quickly and efficiently.Example: If you notice misaligned tiles, document the issue with photos and highlight it during your discussion.
  5. Know your limits
    The checklist helps you spot problems, but some tasks, like water testing box gutters or assessing fastener compliance, need a professional. Know when to bring in an expert.

Examples

Here are some common problems I see, and how the checklist catches them.

Example 1: Poorly Installed Flashing

Issue: A homeowner notices water stains on the interior walls shortly after moving into their new home. Upon inspection, it’s revealed that the flashing around a roof penetration was not installed correctly, allowing water to seep in during heavy rains.

How the Checklist Helps:

  • The checklist calls for flashing laps of at least 75mm (check SA HB39 or the manufacturer's details for your product), sealed with a compatible sealant.
  • During an inspection, this issue could have been identified and corrected before the roof was completed.

Outcome: The flashing is reinstalled according to the standards or manufacturers specifications (if proprietary), preventing further water damage.

Example 2: Insufficient Gutter Gradient

Issue: A homeowner notices water pooling in the box gutters during moderate rainfall. Upon inspection, it’s found that the gutters were installed with an insufficient slope, causing water to stagnate instead of flowing to the downpipes.

How the Checklist Helps:

  • The checklist specifies a minimum fall of 1:200 for box gutters.
  • Early inspection would have identified this problem, allowing contractors to adjust the gradient during installation.

Outcome: The gutters are reinstalled with the correct slope, ensuring proper drainage and avoiding future water damage.

Example 3: Misaligned Roof Tiles

Issue: Strong winds dislodge several roof tiles, exposing the underlayment (sarking/anticon) to the elements. The homeowner discovers that many tiles were not properly aligned or secured with the right amount of clips during installation.

How the Checklist Helps:

  • The checklist requires confirmation that tiles are securely fixed, especially in wind-prone areas, and that ridge and valley tiles are correctly placed, bed and pointed.
  • A mid-installation inspection could have caught this issue before the roof was completed.

Outcome: The tiles are refastened using wind-rated fixing methods, ensuring they remain secure during future storms. Stormseal is installed to the valleys, or the valleys are bed and pointed to prevent windblown rain from entering.

Example 4: Blocked Valleys

Issue: After a heavy storm, water overflows from the roof into the home. The inspection reveals that the valleys were blocked with debris and valley iron wasn't turned up properly to prevent water ingress.

How the Checklist Helps:

  • The checklist includes a step to inspect valleys for debris and ensure proper clearance between valley tiles.
  • This issue could have been resolved during the post-installation phase by checking and clearing the valleys.

Outcome: The debris is removed, and the valleys are left clear, ensuring smooth water flow during future storms.

Example 5: Sealant Failure

Issue: Within a year of installation, leaks develop in the roof. The inspection reveals that the sealant used was not neutral-cure and had corroded the flashing, compromising the roof’s waterproofing.

How the Checklist Helps:

  • The checklist specifies the use of neutral-cure sealants compatible with roofing materials like ZINCALUME® and galvanised steel.
  • An early inspection could have flagged the use of incompatible sealants and prevented corrosion.

Outcome: The flashing and sealant are replaced, restoring the roof’s integrity.

A word on Australian Standards

Most of the standards mentioned above aren't free to read. Here's my take on that:

End of Free Australian Standards: Impact Analysis
This article discusses the end of free access to Australian Standards in public libraries since 2018, its effects on small businesses, safety compliance, and the balance between public and corporate interests. Options for future access and public mobilization strategies are also explored.
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Pay walled knowledge. Helping Aussie owners when they need it.

This makes it tough to access construction standards unless you’re willing to pay the yearly subscription fee (around $660) for most of the ones you need.

That's why hiring a professional inspector is worth it when you're unsure. A checklist alone doesn't guarantee quality; you need to know what you're looking for and how to interpret what you find.

FAQs

1. What is a box gutter, and why is its gradient important?

A box gutter is a rectangular channel used to collect rainwater from roofs and direct it to downpipes. Its gradient, typically a minimum of 1:200, ensures water flows efficiently towards the downpipes and prevents pooling, which could lead to leaks or overflow.

2. How can I tell if my roof flashing is installed correctly?

Properly installed flashing overlaps by at least 75mm, is securely fixed, and is sealed with a compatible neutral-cure sealant. Inspect the flashing around areas like chimneys, valleys, and where the roof meets vertical walls for gaps, improper alignment, or corrosion.

3. What should I look for in mortar bedding and pointing?

Check that the mortar bedding is smooth, evenly applied, and securely holds ridge and hip tiles. Flexible pointing materials should be used to allow for minor roof movements without cracking.

4. Why are overflow measures required for box gutters?

Overflow measures, like rainheads or high-capacity slots, prevent water from backing up into the building during heavy rain. Without these features, water can spill into ceilings or walls, causing significant damage.

5. Can I inspect the roof myself, or do I need a professional?

You can conduct basic inspections, such as checking tile alignment, gutter slopes, and sealant application. However, for technical assessments like pressure testing gutters or verifying compliance with Australian Standards, it’s best to hire a professional inspector.

6. What is “anti-ponding,” and why does it matter?

Anti-ponding boards are installed under the roof’s edge to stop water from pooling on the sarking. This prevents sagging, leaks, and potential structural issues, especially in areas prone to heavy rainfall.

When are anti-ponding boards required?

Low Roof Pitches

  • Roofs with pitches less than 20 degrees are more susceptible to water pooling, as water doesn't drain off as quickly as on steeper roofs.

High-Rainfall Areas

  • Regions with heavy or frequent rainfall increase the likelihood of water accumulation, making anti-ponding boards essential to maintain the sarking’s performance.
  • These boards help direct water into the gutters efficiently.

Large Roof Spans

  • Roofs with wide spans can exert significant weight on the sarking, particularly during heavy rains, causing it to sag. Anti-ponding boards provide additional support.

Proximity to Gutters

  • In areas near roof edges or valleys, water flow is concentrated. Without anti-ponding boards, the sarking can trap water at these points instead of directing it into the gutters.

Wind-Driven Rain

  • In wind-prone areas, rain can be pushed under the roof covering, increasing the chance of water pooling on the sarking. Anti-ponding boards act as a barrier to mitigate this risk.

7. How can I ensure tiles are securely fastened?

Check that tiles are aligned and clipped, especially at edges, valleys and ridges. How many tiles must be fixed depends on your wind classification, roof pitch and tile type, so check the AS 2050 fixing table or the tile manufacturer's fixing guide for your site.

8. What Australian Standards apply to roofing installations?

Key standards include:

  • AS 2050: covers the design and installation of roof tiles.
  • AS 1562.1: covers metal sheet roofing, relevant if part of your roof or your flashings are metal sheet.
  • AS 3566.1: Specifies requirements for fasteners used in roofing.
  • AS 4200.2: Focuses on the installation of pliable building membranes, such as sarking, for thermal and waterproofing performance.
  • AS 3500.3: Details requirements for stormwater drainage, including gutters and downpipes.
  • AS 3500.5: Addresses water services, including overflow and drainage management in roof installations.
  • SA HB39: Provides guidelines for metal roofing and cladding, including flashings and gutters.
  • SA HB 114: guidelines for the design of eaves and box gutters.
  • National Construction Code (NCC) Volume Two: Serves as the overarching compliance document for residential construction, incorporating the standards above.

9. How do I address defects found during inspections?

  1. Document the defects with photos and notes, referencing the specific checklist item.
  2. Share these with your contractor and request corrective action.
  3. Follow up after corrections to ensure the issues have been resolved.

10. What tools or resources can help me use the checklist effectively?

  • A spirit level for checking gutter gradients.
  • A flashlight for inspecting dark or hard-to-reach areas.
  • A camera or smartphone for documenting findings.
  • Access to the National Construction Code (NCC) or Australian Standards for reference.
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