AS3958.1:2007 – A guide for home owners to understand

1. Introduction

If you’ve ever wandered through a tile showroom or spent a late night pinning your dream bathroom, you know there’s more to tiling than picking a pretty tile. The floor has to be flat, have the right falls and be waterproofed before a single tile goes down.

That’s where AS3958.1:2007 Ceramic Tiles: Guide to the Installation of Ceramic Tiles comes in. It sets out the minimum requirements for installing, you guessed it, floor and wall tiles.

It covers substrate preparation (Section 4), adhesive coverage and application (Section 5.6), and tolerances for lippage (Section 5.4.6). Knowing what’s in it helps you and your tiler agree on what a compliant, long-lasting installation looks like.

2. What the Standard Is and Why It Exists

2.1. Overview

So, what exactly does AS3958.1:2007 do, and why should you care?

In plain terms, it tells tilers, builders and DIYers how to properly install ceramic (and porcelain) tiles. It covers:

Which materials to use and why (e.g., picking the right adhesive).
How to handle different surfaces (like concrete floors or timber framed walls and floors).
Ensuring consistent grout lines, good tile alignment, and minimal “lippage” (the annoying height differences between tiles that every home owner will notice).

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As a homeowner, understanding the scope of AS3958.1:2007 helps you ask the right questions. For example, if your tiler is cutting corners on substrate prep or skipping movement joints, you’ll spot potential issues before they become expensive disasters.

2.2. Technical Perspective

Section 1 sets the scope: ceramic tile installation in both residential and commercial work. It covers:

Floors and walls, whether they’re indoors or outdoors.
Adhesive-based installation methods (as opposed to, say, mortar-bed methods, which might be referenced elsewhere).
Acceptable tolerances, detailing how much variation is allowed in levelness, tile spacing, and overall finish.

AS3958.1:2007 doesn’t work alone. Bathrooms and other wet areas must also comply with AS3740 (Waterproofing of Domestic Wet Areas), and commercial kitchens may have extra health and safety rules to follow.

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3. Key Definitions & Terminology

3.1. Overview

Tiling comes with its own jargon. Knowing these terms makes it much easier to talk to your tiler or builder and to spot problems early. Here are the core ones:

Ceramic Tiles: A broad category, sometimes used loosely to include porcelain. These are made from clay and other materials, fired in a kiln.
Substrate: Essentially the surface you’re tiling onto—like a concrete slab or a timber floor. If the substrate isn’t prepared correctly, even the highest-quality tiles won’t stay put.
Adhesive: A glue-like substance (usually cement-based and polymer-modified) that secures the tile to the substrate. Different adhesives suit different tile types and environments (e.g., indoor vs. outdoor).
Grout: This fills the gaps between tiles, providing both a finished look and preventing dirt or moisture from sneaking underneath.
Movement Joint: A deliberate gap filled with flexible material (like silicone) that allows the tiled surface to “breathe” when the building expands or contracts.

3.2. Technical Perspective

Section 1.3 of AS3958.1:2007 sets out the definitions so everyone, from homeowners to professional tilers, is speaking the same language. A more technical breakdown:

Ceramic vs. Porcelain: While porcelain is a type of ceramic, it’s denser and has a lower water absorption rate (<0.5%).
Substrate: The standard defines acceptable substrate materials (concrete, render, plasterboard, timber) and spells out how each should be structurally sound, free of contamination, and meeting certain flatness tolerances.
Adhesive Classes: AS3958.1:2007 often references different adhesive classifications (e.g., C1, C2 for cementitious adhesives), specifying minimum bond strength or flexibility requirements.
Grout Types: Cementitious, polymer-modified, or epoxy. Each has specific properties—like chemical resistance or shrinkage rates—important for commercial or high-moisture settings.
Movement Joints: Sometimes called “control joints,” they’re essential where large expanses of tile can crack if the surface can’t move slightly. Section 3 clarifies that these joints must be distinct from grout lines, using a flexible sealant or dedicated expansion strip.

4. Substrate Preparation & Requirements

4.1. Overview

Ask any good tiler and they’ll tell you the real work starts underneath. Your substrate (a concrete slab, timber floor, or concrete or masonry wall) has to be flat, stable and clean before adhesive goes anywhere near it. If it’s out of level or flexing, you’ll end up with drummy (hollow-sounding) tiles, cracked grout or uneven, lippy tile edges.

Here’s what you need to know:

Flatness matters: Even a few millimetres of difference can cause “lippage” (where one tile sits higher than another). Think of a small ridge in your living room floor—no one wants to feel that underfoot (especially after a heavy rum night).
Clean and dry: Dust, oil, leftover paint, or old adhesives can prevent the new adhesive from bonding properly. The substrate should also have the right moisture content.
Fix issues early: If your substrate is uneven or damaged, levelling compounds, floor grinding or even a new screed will smooth things out. It’s more work upfront, but worth every cent if it keeps your tiles looking good for years.

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Check with your builder to ensure that floor preparation is allowed for as a standard inclusion or the process (quality process, ITP/ITC) of ensuring floors are level, within standard tolerances prior to tiling start onsite.

4.2. What does the standard say?

From the viewpoint of AS3958.1:2007, Sections 4 & 5 spell out the condition and preparation of substrates in detail:

Acceptable Substrate Types
- Concrete: Should be fully cured (often 28 days), with no excessive cracks or “laitance” (a weak, powdery surface layer). See Appendix B and clause 4.5.4.2(d) for more on this.
- Timber or Particleboard: Requires adequate stiffness and often a suitable underlay (like fibre cement sheeting) to reduce deflection.
- Render or Plasterboard: Must be sound, not drummy or peeling, and typically free from residual paint or contaminants.
Tolerances for Flatness/Levelness
- The standard might specify that the deviation under a 2 m straightedge should not exceed about 3–4 mm (though specifics can vary with tile size).
- If the substrate fails this test, screeding or self-levelling compounds are recommended.
Moisture Content
- If your substrate is too damp (like a newly poured concrete slab), it can interfere with adhesive curing or lead to efflorescence (white salt deposits).
- AS3958.1 references moisture testing, especially for timber or other sensitive materials specifically in clause 5.2.2.2 and Appendix A8, also C2.2 Efflorescence, Table E1 (swimming pools).
Surface Contaminants
- Section 4.5.3.2(d) and Appendix B underscores removing oil, grease, dust, old adhesives, or any substance that could compromise the new adhesive bond.
Primers
- Sometimes recommended for highly porous substrates, ensuring the adhesive doesn’t dry out too quickly and lose its bonding strength. All product manufacturers detail if and when primers are required as part of their adhesive system. Always check the PDS and TDS prior to application to ensure the correct compatibility chain of products is used (maintain warranty).

5. Selecting the Right Tile for Your Project

5.1. Overview

Walk into a tile shop and you’ll be spoilt for choice: glossy marbles, rustic ceramics, sleek porcelains and everything in between. Looks matter, but function should guide the pick. Here’s what to weigh up:

Room Type
- Wet Areas (bathrooms, laundries): Slip-resistant or textured tiles can save you from slippery floors. Also be mindful of how they will be cleaned (mop, scourer, broom, squeegee?)
- High-Traffic Zones (hallways, kitchens): Consider durable porcelain or high-quality ceramics that stand up to foot traffic and the occasional dropped object.
Tile Size & Layout
- Large-Format Tiles create fewer grout lines (a plus for easier cleaning) but demand a flatter substrate and are more expensive to lay.
- Smaller Tiles or Mosaics can add visual interest, especially as accents or feature walls. Make sure if you select glass mosaics you understand that often they must be cut with specialist tools, not all trades own them, to ensure a clean and straight cut edge. Discuss this with your builder in advance of installation to avoid time or cost issues.
Finish & Style
- Glossy: Reflects light and can make a small space feel bigger, but can be slippery when wet.
- Matte/Textured: Hides dirt and footprints better, and generally safer underfoot in moist areas.
Budget & Maintenance
- Natural stone (marble, travertine) can be pricier and needs regular sealing.
- Ceramic and porcelain often require less upkeep.

5.2. Technical Perspective

While AS3958.1:2007 mainly discusses installation of tiles, it does reference tile classifications that can help you make choices:

Water Absorption Classes
- Impervious Tiles (e.g., porcelain) have very low water absorption (<0.5%), making them ideal for bathrooms, pools, or exteriors.
- Vitreous or Semi-Vitreous ceramics might absorb a bit more moisture but are still suitable for many indoor applications.
Wear (PEI) Ratings for Glazed Tiles
- Rated from Class 1 (light residential) to Class 5 (heavy commercial). If you’re tiling a busy entryway or commercial kitchen, opt for a higher PEI rating.
Slip Resistance
- Building codes may reference slip resistance standards (like AS4586 or AS4663) for floors exposed to water, especially in public or commercial settings.
- AS3958.1 points out that tiles must be “fit for purpose,” so your choice of tile surface finish is part of compliance.
Tile Format Tolerances
- AS3958.1 acknowledges that larger tiles (e.g., 600×600 mm or bigger) can accentuate substrate imperfections, so careful substrate preparation and flatness is required.
- Rectified tiles (mechanically cut edges) allow narrower grout lines but demand the most amount of care to install (flatness and surface preparation, installation care).
Want to stay on your feet? Choose the right tile. Learn about shade, slip and wear resistance and keep your feet in traction on external tiled surfaces, ramps and walkways.

6. Layout and Aesthetic Considerations

6.1. Overview

Once you’ve chosen your tiles, the layout decides how the room looks and feels. Things to think about:

Choosing a Pattern
- Straight (Grid) Layout: Creates a clean, modern vibe; typically easier to align.
- Brick (Offset) Pattern: Adds a bit of texture and visual interest (like brick walls).
- Diagonal or Herringbone: A nice choice that can make a small space look bigger but requires more cutting and additional costs to lay.
Focal Points and Symmetry
- Try centring your layout on a feature wall or a main entry point.
- Avoid ending with tiny “sliver” cuts at doorways or corners—plan so tiles at edges are reasonably sized.
Transitions Between Rooms
- Where tile meets carpet or timber, consider using transition strips or trim pieces to avoid trip hazards or ragged edges.
Aesthetics vs. Practicality
- Bold patterns might look stunning, but keep in mind installation complexity and the potential for more tile cuts (which can raise labour costs).

6.2. Technical Perspective

From an AS3958.1:2007 standpoint, Section 5.4 (General Criteria for Installation) covers setting out: marking reference lines and planning where tiles go. Key points:

Chalk Lines and Reference Points
- Installers often create a grid using chalk or a laser level to ensure tiles line up consistently. This becomes more critical with larger or rectified tiles, where even a few millimetres off can ruin the alignment.
Even Joint Spacing
- While the standard may not dictate your exact pattern, it stresses consistent grout widths. If you’re opting for a minimal 2 mm joint, it must remain 2 mm across the entire floor, not 2 mm here and 3 mm there.
Visual Continuity
- AS3958.1 highlights that layout planning should account for openings, corners, and edges to minimise awkward tile cuts. This not only looks better but also distributes stress points more evenly.
Minimising Lippage
- Certain layouts (like brick-bond with large-format tiles) can heighten the risk of lippage where tile corners meet the middle of another tile. The standard might suggest offsetting by no more than 30% rather than 50%, depending on tile curvature.

7. Adhesives and Bonding

7.1. Overview

Adhesive is the “glue” that holds everything together, literally. Your choice decides whether tiles stay put or start popping off a few months later. A few practical points:

Type of Tile and Location
- Ceramic or Porcelain? Large format or small mosaic? Indoor or outdoor? Different adhesives are required in different scenarios.
- For outdoor tiling (like a patio), you need an adhesive that can handle temperature swings and moisture.
- Pools require specific adhesives to suit water submerged installation.
Application Technique
- Proper trowel notch size ensures the right coverage. The larger the tile, the bigger the notch you’ll typically need.
- Back-buttering (applying adhesive to the back of the tile as well as the substrate) ensures better contact, especially for large-format tiles.
- The Tarver method this is the process of laying the tile onto the adhesive then sliding it up by by about 10-15mm then back into its final position. This "knocks down" or collapses adhesive ridges, removing spaces and providing adhesive coverage. Check out the video below demonstrating this technique and showing you why this is important.
Setting and Curing Times
- Don’t rush! If you walk on tiles or grout them too soon, you risk weakening the bond. A little patience goes a long way.

The Tarver Method

7.2. Technical Perspective

Sections 5.5 and 5.6 (and Appendix E) of AS3958.1:2007 cover adhesive specifications, including coverage, bed thickness and bond strength:

Adhesive Classifications
- Cementitious (C1, C2 ratings): Usually a powder mixed with water. C2 indicates higher bond strength or performance modifiers.
- Polymer-Modified: These include latex or other polymers, offering flexibility—ideal for substrates prone to minor movement (like timber) or for large-format porcelain tiles.
- Epoxy Adhesives: Extremely strong, chemical-resistant, and often used in commercial or high-moisture settings.
Coverage and Bedding Depth
- The standard stresses achieving full bedding under tiles, especially in wet areas or outdoors (aiming for close to 100% coverage).
- Minimum bed thickness might be around 3 mm for many floor applications, but can vary with tile size and manufacturer’s instructions.
Environmental Factors
- Temperature and humidity can speed up or slow down open time (the period during which your adhesive remains workable).
- AS3958.1 advises caution in extreme conditions—too hot, and adhesive skins over prematurely; too cold, and curing may be incomplete.
Back-Buttering
- Though not always explicitly mandated, it’s strongly recommended for large-format or textured-backed tiles to ensure minimal voids and a robust bond.

8. Grouting and Joint Widths

8.1. Overview

Grout is the chef’s kiss that can make or break the look of your tiled surface. Here’s what you should know:

Grout Widths
- Narrow Joints (1.5–3 mm): Popular with rectified (precision-cut) tiles for a sleek, modern look, but requires very careful alignment.
- Standard Widths (3–5 mm): More forgiving of slight tile variations and can blend with many décor styles.
- Wider Joints (5 mm+): Might be necessary for rustic or handmade tiles that vary in size, or to match a specific aesthetic.
Grout Types
- Cement-Based: The most common and budget-friendly. Typically needs sealing to prevent stains.
- Polymer-Modified: More flexible and often more water-resistant. Most often specified and used.
- Epoxy Grout: Extremely durable and stain-resistant, but more challenging and expensive to apply.
Application Tips
- Use a rubber float to press grout firmly between tiles.
- Clean off excess grout quickly to prevent haze.
- Follow curing times before exposing the surface to water or heavy foot traffic.

8.2. Technical Perspective

Sections 5.4 and 5.7 (Joints and Grouting) of AS3958.1:2007 give specific guidelines:

Joint Width Tolerances
- The standard usually suggests a consistent joint width throughout the installation.
- Rectified tiles might be laid with a 3 mm joint (Section 5.4.6), but this requires close attention to substrate flatness (preparation) and tile alignment.
Grout Classification
- Cementitious (CG1, CG2) vs. Epoxy (RG) or Furan Grout (often used in heavy-duty industrial settings). Each type has different performance in terms of water absorption, chemical resistance, and shrinkage.
- Polymer additives can improve flexibility and reduce the risk of cracks.
Coverage and Cleaning
- AS3958.1 stresses filling joints completely, leaving no air pockets. Incomplete filling can lead to grout cracking or moisture penetration.
- Excessive haze left on tile surfaces can be difficult to remove, and Appendix C (Finishing) typically notes that acid-based cleaners must be used carefully to avoid damaging grout or tile glazes.
Movement Joints vs. Grout Joints
- It’s critical not to confuse movement (control) joints with standard grout joints. Movement joints need flexible sealants (like silicone), not rigid grout.

9. Movement Joints and Expansion Gaps

9.1. Overview

Your tiled floor might feel rock-solid, but every home moves. Temperature, humidity and settling make floors and walls expand and contract, just a little. Concrete also shrinks as it dries, a bit like a cake cracking on top in the oven, and how much depends on the mix, reinforcement, weather and construction details.

With no room for that movement, tiles crack or “tent” (lift up into a peak), and the repairs are expensive. Movement joints are built-in shock absorbers for your tiled surface:

Where You’ll See Them
- Perimeters: Around the edges where tile meets walls or fixed fixtures.
- Large Areas: In bigger rooms, you might see them spaced at certain intervals (like every 5 to 6 metres).
- In tiled rooms exposed to direct sunlight.
- Changes in substrate/material: Where a concrete slab meets a timber subfloor, for instance.
Materials
- Flexible Sealants: Silicone or polyurethane that can compress or expand.
- Expansion Strips: Pre-made profiles with a flexible core.
Why They're Important
- Preventing cracks and popped tiles.
- Allowing natural building movement without damaging the tile.

9.2. Technical Perspective

AS3958.1:2007, specifically Section 5.4, discusses movement (control) joints. Key points include:

Spacing and Placement
- Usually required at perimeters, around columns or penetrations, and at regular intervals for large expanses of tile (commonly every 5–6 metres, though site conditions can vary).
- The standard can differ for exterior vs. interior installations, accounting for higher thermal expansion outdoors.
Materials for Movement Joints
- The standard emphasises using flexible sealants or special joint profiles rather than grout.
- Silicones or polyurethanes are typically recommended, but they must be compatible with the tile and substrate.
Design Considerations
- Movement joints are sometimes concealed under skirting boards or along doorway thresholds.
- Section 5.4.5 underscores that these joints cannot be filled with rigid materials—doing so defeats their very purpose.
Consequences of Non-Compliance
- Without proper expansion gaps, tiles can buckle or form “tents” (a dramatic lifting of the tile surface).
- Cracked grout lines often signal that movement is happening with no designated joints to absorb it.

10. Installation in Wet Areas

10.1. Overview

Bathrooms, laundries and other wet areas are the hardest spots to tile. On top of slip resistance, you have waterproofing to get right, because moisture in the substrate leads to mould, rot and even structural damage over time. Here’s what to keep in mind:

Waterproof Membranes
- A waterproof membrane is often applied to shower floors, walls, or anywhere that sees frequent water exposure.
- Overlooking proper waterproofing is a recipe for hidden water damage that can be expensive to fix down the road.
Drainage and Falls
- Wet-area floors, especially in showers, need a slight slope or fall so water runs into the drain rather than pooling in corners.
- Poor drainage = slippery surfaces, mould and potential seepage into adjacent rooms.
Slip Resistance
- Look for tiles with a mild texture or a slip-resistance rating, especially in shower stalls or around bathtubs.
- Be mindful that glossy tiles, while stylish, can become quite slippery when wet.
  - This becomes especially important when considering SDA design guidelines.
Silicone Sealing
- Edges and corners (think where walls meet floors, or around shower niches) are sealed with flexible sealants to keep water from sneaking behind the tiles.

10.2. Technical Perspective

While AS3958.1:2007 provides guidelines for ceramic tile installation, wet areas also fall under AS3740 (Waterproofing of Domestic Wet Areas).

Here’s how these standards interconnect:

Waterproofing Requirements
- References in AS3958.1 point to AS3740 for detailed moisture control practices, including membrane types, minimum overlap heights, and curing times.
- A common best practice is applying a liquid-applied or sheet membrane with extra care around penetrations like drains or tap fittings.
Substrate Preparation
- The substrate must be sound, smooth, dust free and dry before applying any membrane.
- Timber floors, for instance, may need a cement sheet underlay and primer to create a suitable base for waterproofing.
- The gap between compressed fibre-cement sheets and concrete kerbs or floors
  to be sealed with water-resistant flexible sealant. This is mostly done with a neutral cure silicon bond breaker detailed and tooled in accordance with the membrane class (Class 1,2,3).
Minimum Falls
- Floors in showers need a 1:60 (16.7mm drop over 1m) to 1:80 fall (around 12.5 mm drop per metre) to direct water to the drain. Exact requirements can vary, so refer to local codes and Appendix D (Falls in Floor Finishes) in AS3958.1 for falls guidelines.
- External balconies or wet-area floors might require a slightly different pitch (often 1:80 to 1:100), ensuring water doesn’t pool. AS3740 details requirements for balconies and overflows.
Movement Joints in Wet Areas
- Wet areas are prone to humidity and temperature changes, increasing the likelihood of expansion and contraction.
- Section 2.7 & 5.4.5 in AS3958.1 reiterates the need for movement joints, especially around perimeter edges, corners, and large areas.
Drainage Detailing
- Whether you’re using a point drain in the centre or a linear (channel) drain along one edge, AS3958.1 (in tandem with AS3740) highlights that tile edges must be carefully sealed and sloped to prevent water infiltration beneath the membrane.

10.3. Ask About Moisture Testing

Ask your builder whether their tiler records moisture and temperature readings before tiling, as part of their ITPs (inspection and test plans). Those records protect you both if tiles fail later.
The meters aren’t expensive. The Trotec kit below is a good example, and every tiler and builder should own one and use it on every site. Trust me, if tiles fail, the adhesive manufacturer will want to see those testing records before they accept “it must be the glue.”

11. Post-Installation Best Practices

11.1. Overview

Tiles down, grout in. Now everything needs to set and cure properly so it stays looking great. Here’s what that means:

Initial Cleaning
- A thin layer of grout haze may appear on the tile surface. Wiping gently with a damp sponge a short while after grouting usually handles it. If there’s still residue, a specialised grout-haze remover may help—just follow the label!
Curing Period
- Avoid stepping on newly laid tiles for at least 24 hours, or as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.
- Let grout set according to the package instructions (often 24–48 hours) before you start mopping or subjecting the tiles to water.
Sealing
- Grout Sealer: Some cement-based grouts are porous, benefiting from a sealant to keep water and stains at bay.
- Stone Tiles: If you used natural stone, it may also require sealing to prevent staining or moisture damage.
Ventilation
- In wet areas or humid climates, good airflow helps grout and adhesives dry properly. Turn on exhaust fans or open windows if possible.

11.2. Technical Perspective

AS3958.1:2007 covers cleaning and aftercare in Clause 5.8 and, in the most detail, Appendix C. It also deals with curing times:

Adhesive and Grout Curing
- The standard often references manufacturer guidelines. A “rapid-set” adhesive may allow foot traffic in a few hours, but normal adhesives need 24 hours or more.
- Grout typically needs to set fully (sometimes 7 days for complete cure) before heavy water exposure or sealing.
Haze Removal and Acid Cleaning
- Mild, pH-neutral cleaners are recommended to remove any lingering grout haze.
- If stronger acid-based products are needed, AS3958.1 advises caution to avoid damaging grout joints or the tile glaze.
Checking for Hollow Spots
- Some installers tap tiles lightly to detect voids (a hollow sound may indicate poor adhesive coverage). AS3958.1 highlights that prompt re-bonding or replacement can prevent more significant issues later.
Movement Joint Inspection
- Flexible sealants in movement joints may need periodic checks. If they show signs of splitting or detachment, reapplying sealant maintains the joint’s integrity.
Documentation and Record-Keeping
- For most projects, maintaining a record of adhesive types, batch numbers, and site conditions for warranty or dispute resolution.

12. Common Issues and How to Avoid Them

12.1. Overview

Most tiling problems come from skipped steps or cut corners. The usual suspects:

Rushing Substrate Prep
- Trying to tile over an out of level floors or a dusty, non porous and un-primed surfaces leads to loose, cracked tiles down the line.
- Avoid the “it’ll be fine” mentality; proper surface preparation, levelling, filling and grinding will be worth every minute.
Ignoring Movement Joints
- “We don’t need that gap” might sound like a time-saver, but without movement joints, tiles can tent or crack as the house settles or expands.
- A small, neatly finished control joint installed now saves a huge headache later.
Wrong Adhesive or Grout
- Cement adhesives (non-polymer modified) for large-format porcelain? Not always a good match.
- Using wall grout on the floors (does happen from time to time) and can lead to rapid staining or water infiltration creating waterproofing or water movement issues.
Hasty Grout Application
- If you grout too soon or skip cleaning the excess, you’ll end up with uneven joints or stubborn grout haze.
Skipping the Curing Time
- Walking on tiles prematurely can break the adhesive bond.
- Give grout the recommended curing period before exposing it to water or heavy foot traffic.

12.2. Technical Perspective

From AS3958.1:2007 and related sections, these pitfalls often boil down to non-compliance with key requirements:

Section 5 Non-Compliance (Substrate)
- 5.4.6 Not meeting flatness tolerances (e.g., >4 mm deviation over 2 m) or failing to remove contaminants violates the standard’s core substrate prep guidelines.
Section 5.4.5 Oversight (Movement Joints)
- Omitting control joints or filling them with rigid grout contradicts the movement provisions and can result in tile delamination.
Materials Mismatch (Table 4.5)
- Using an adhesive not suited for the tile size or substrate environment. AS3958.1 advises ensuring the adhesive’s classification (C1, C2, etc.) matches the job specs.
Section 5.7: Improper Finishing
- Residual grout haze or damage from harsh acidic cleaners is a direct sign of ignoring the finishing recommendations.
Inadequate Curing
- The standard references manufacturer data for open times and cure times—if not followed, bond strength may be insufficient.

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Key Takeaway:
Most tiling disasters are preventable by following AS3958.1:2007 , having a quality management plan in place, using ITP, ITC and ITR —especially around substrate prep, movement joints, and material selection. A bit of planning and preliminary work along with reading and record keeping prevents a world of trouble down the road.

Wrapping Up

If you’ve made it this far, well done. AS3958.1 runs to about 111 pages, but it’s one of the easier standards to read and understand.

Following the standard isn’t about making life harder. It sets a baseline of quality everyone can work to, and if a dispute comes up later (about tile evenness, for example), the standard’s tolerances give you a clear way to resolve it.

Some homeowners enjoy the challenge of tiling on their own. Just be sure you understand the standard’s guidelines and don’t rush substrate prep or product selection.

For larger or more complex projects (like heavily trafficked floors, balconies, or intricate layouts), a qualified tiler or builder familiar with AS3958.1:2007 can help you sidestep issues and deliver a result you’ll love.

The video below shows why movement joints matter.

Its all about respecting the movement - make sure to add control joints in your tile installation.

Test yourself

Five quick questions on this topic. Click a question to see the answer.

What is a 'thin-bed' adhesive as defined in the document?

Adhesive bedding not exceeding 3 mm in thickness.

What does the term 'lippage' refer to in tiling?

A condition where one edge of a tile is higher than an adjacent tile.

What is the purpose of grouting in tiling?

To fill the joint cavities between tiles other than at movement joints.

What type of steel should be used for fixings in tiling systems?

Austenitic stainless steel.

What is the maximum deflection allowed for structural slabs when using cement-based adhesive?

1/360 of span.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

FAQ 1: “Do I really need a movement joint if my tiled area is under 5 m in length?”

Answer: Yes. Even small rooms benefit from perimeter joints, which let the floor expand and contract without pushing against the walls. Larger rooms also need intermediate joints, especially where there’s structural or thermal movement. You can even make a design feature of them. Check out the Latham strips below for example.

Neoprene X-Pansion Loc & Tile Strips

The Neoprene-X-Pansion Loc Strip Control Joint System manufactured by Latham is a leader for floor control strips in the Australian construction industry.

Latham Australia

FAQ 2: “How do I know my substrate is flat enough?”

Answer: A quick test is to place a 2 m straightedge across different parts of the floor or wall. If the gap between the substrate and the straightedge exceeds 3–4 mm, you likely need to level it.

FAQ 3: “Which grout width should I choose for my tiles?”

Answer: It depends on factors like tile size, tile edge type (rectified vs. non-rectified), and personal preference. Narrow joints (around 2 mm) give a contemporary look but demand near-perfect alignment. Wider joints (3–5 mm) can hide slight tile or substrate irregularities.

FAQ 4: “Can I tile over existing tiles?”

Answer: It’s possible but not always recommended. The existing tile surface must be securely bonded, abraded (roughed up/ground to improve adhesion), clean, and free of cracks. You also need to consider the added height. AS3958.1:2007 emphasises proper substrate adhesion—so, if the old tiles are loose or the substrate is unsound, removal is best.

FAQ 5: “Why is my grout cracking in just a few spots?”

Answer: Minor cracks can occur if the grout shrinks or if there’s slight movement in the substrate. However, if cracking is widespread or persistent, it may indicate insufficient substrate prep, missing or inadequate movement joints, or using the wrong grout type for your environment.

FAQ 6: “Is epoxy grout worth the extra expense?”

Answer: Epoxy is highly stain-resistant, waterproof, and durable—great for areas like commercial kitchens or showers prone to heavy moisture. However, it’s harder to apply and costs more. For a standard residential floor with low moisture exposure, a high-quality cement-based or polymer-modified grout may suffice.

FAQ 7: “How soon can I walk on or clean my newly tiled floor?”

Answer: A common guideline is 24 hours before light foot traffic, but always check the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Grout typically needs up to 48 hours to cure before heavy cleaning or exposure to water.

FAQ 8: “Should I seal my tile or grout?”

Answer: Many cement-based grouts benefit from sealing. Natural stone or certain porcelain tiles may also require sealing to prevent stains. Always follow the tile/grout manufacturer’s recommendations—sealing can significantly prolong the life and appearance of your installation.