A well-kept hedge makes a new home look finished. A neglected one ends up bare at the bottom, bushy at the top and taking over the path. Here are six tips to keep yours looking sharp.

1. Prune at the right time

Do your hard formative prune in late winter (August), then give formal hedges a light trim in late spring and again in late summer. Informal hedges usually only need one maintenance trim a year.

Late winter works well because growth is slow and, for deciduous plants, you can see the branch structure clearly. The plant then puts on strong new growth in spring.

Timing does vary by species, and in warmer parts of Queensland many hedging plants grow almost year round. Check the needs of your particular plant, and avoid heavy pruning just before flowering if you want the flowers.

2. Shape it wider at the base

Trim the hedge so it's slightly wider at the bottom than the top. That lets sunlight reach the lower branches, which keeps the hedge leafy right down to the ground. A hedge that's wider at the top shades its own base and goes bare and twiggy underneath.

Cut the top first, then the sides, working along the hedge in smooth, even passes.

To keep it consistent:

  • Run a string line along the hedge at the height you want for the top.
  • Make a gauge. A timber garden stake with tape marks for height and width stops you over pruning in a burst of enthusiasm.
  • Measure from fixed points like a wall or path edge so the hedge stays even along its length.

A long-reach trimmer with an adjustable head lets you cut the top of a hedge up to about 3 m from the ground without climbing a ladder.

3. Thin it so light gets in

Thin the hedge enough that light reaches the inside, which keeps the lower branches leafy. Where a stem forks, cut just above the fork. Take out the oldest, woodiest stems first and leave the ones carrying fresh growth. Remove dead, diseased or crossing branches while you're there.

4. Rescue an overgrown hedge in stages

If a hedge has got away from you, don't try to fix it in one go. Use loppers to remove three or four of the oldest, tallest stems close to the ground so sunlight can get into the middle. Repeat each year over two or three years until the hedge has filled back in at a manageable size. Cutting everything back hard at once can kill some species.

5. Use the right tool, and keep it clean

Hand shears are fine for small shrubs. For anything bigger, a powered trimmer will do the job in minutes.

Cordless electric suits most suburban gardens. They're light, quiet and need little maintenance. Hedge trimmers drain batteries quickly, so a second, larger battery (around 4Ah) is worth having. Make sure any spare battery matches the trimmer's voltage and battery system.

Petrol is worth the extra money if you have a lot of hedging. I use a Stihl HS 45 and have used Stihl gear for years without problems. I have no affiliation with Stihl. See the HS 45 on the Stihl website.

Some well-rated cordless trimmers to look at (check current pricing, as it changes often). These are Amazon affiliate links:

Clean your tools after every use. Sap builds up on blades, makes them drag and can spread disease between plants. I spray the blades with Stihl Resin Solvent, scrub them with a plastic bristle brush (an old toothbrush works for hand shears) and wipe them down with a microfibre cloth.

6. Know when to call a professional

If you're short on time or the hedges are big, a professional is money well spent. They have the right equipment, know how each species should be cut, and can spot pests or disease before it becomes a bigger problem. And you get your weekend back.

Further reading