Most new Queensland homes are framed in treated pine and LVL, with a bit of hardwood or steel where something heavy needs holding up. Here's what those are, why they're used, and what to look for when you walk your frame.
Hardwood and softwood
The names are about the tree, not how hard the timber is:
- Hardwoods come from broad-leaf trees, which in Australia mostly means eucalypts. Spotted gum, ironbark, blackbutt and jarrah are examples. They're generally denser, stronger and more naturally durable.
- Softwoods come from conifers such as radiata pine, slash pine and hoop pine. They're lighter, cheaper, faster growing and easier to work.
In a typical new home, the wall frames and roof trusses are softwood. Hardwood shows up in posts, decks, flooring and some beams.
C7 - Frame Stage Inspection Checklist
$119.00 AUD
Last updated 28 Oct 2026 · Revision 5 · Free updates for life
Checklist Type: Major (Frame Stage)
Form Factor: Fillable, print-ready PDF (A4, 48 pages)
When to use: Frame stage: after the frame and trusses are up, before linings go in
A 146-point frame stage checklist. Check walls, openings, trusses, bracing and tie-downs against your drawings before the linings go in, while changes are still simple.
What your frame is actually made of
Pine studs and plates (MGP10 and MGP12)
Plantation pine, usually radiata or slash pine, is the standard for wall frames and trusses. You'll see sizes like 90 x 35 and 90 x 45 for studs and plates.
The grade stamped on the timber tells you its strength:
- MGP10 is the most common grade for house framing and is allowed by AS 1684.
- MGP12 is stronger and stiffer. Some builders use it for straighter walls and longer spans, and I'd recommend it where you can.
Every piece of structural timber should carry a stamp showing its stress grade, and usually its treatment level. If there's no stamp, ask why.
LVL beams and lintels
Laminated veneer lumber (LVL) is made from thin veneers glued together with the grain all running the same way. It's very straight, consistent and strong for its size, so it's used for lintels over openings, beams, long rafters and floor joists. Because it doesn't twist and bow like sawn timber, it's also used where straightness matters, such as kitchen walls.
If you want to compare the two, read our post on 90x35 MGP framing timbers or LVL.
Hardwood
Australian hardwood is stress graded in F grades, with F17 common for structural use. You'll find it in exposed posts, verandahs, decks, stairs and some older-style framing. It's heavy, can move and split as it dries, and costs more, which is why pine and LVL have taken over most framing.
Glulam and CLT
Glued laminated timber (glulam) is built up from layers of sawn timber glued together. It's used for big exposed beams and posts, and can be curved. Cross-laminated timber (CLT) panels have layers glued crossways and are used for floors and walls in some larger or architect-designed buildings. You won't often see either in a project home.
Sheet products
- Structural plywood is used for bracing walls (fixed to the frame to resist wind), flooring and some roof substrates.
- Particleboard flooring is common on timber-framed upper floors. It must be kept dry during construction.
- OSB (oriented strand board) is used for bracing and flooring in some systems. It swells if it gets wet, so it needs to be kept dry too.
- MDF is non-structural. It's used for skirting, architraves, joinery and cabinets inside.
Treatment: why pine has to be treated
Radiata and slash pine have little natural resistance to rot or termites. In Queensland, framing pine is treated to a hazard level set out in AS 1604:
- H2 for inside, above ground, protected from the weather. This is the standard for wall frames and trusses. It protects against termites and borers.
- H3 for outside above ground, such as fascias, pergolas and exposed framing.
- H4 for in-ground use, such as fence posts.
- H5 for in-ground and wet, heavy-load uses such as retaining wall posts.
Use the right level for the job. H2 framing left out in the weather, or used for a pergola, will rot.
Treated framing doesn't replace a termite barrier. Your home still needs a termite management system to protect the parts of the building that aren't treated.
Common treatments you'll come across:
- LOSP (light organic solvent preservative): doesn't change the timber's appearance much, often used for mouldings and joinery timber.
- Water-based treatments (copper or synthetic pyrethroid based): used for framing and outdoor timber.
- CCA (copper chrome arsenate): still used for some structural and in-ground timber, but no longer allowed in Australia for things people touch often, like decking, handrails, garden furniture and play equipment.
For more detail, see our guide to using treated pine in residential construction.
Handling it safely
- Wear a dust mask when cutting or sanding treated timber or MDF.
- Never burn treated timber offcuts.
- Take offcuts and sawdust to the tip, not the compost or garden.
What to check at frame stage
When you walk through your frame, look for:
- Stamps on studs, plates and beams showing the stress grade and treatment. No stamp, no confidence.
- Correct members where the plans show them, such as LVL lintels over wide openings and engineer-specified beams.
- No weather-exposed H2 timber. Anything outside needs H3 or better.
- Straight walls, especially around the kitchen, bathroom and where tiles or cabinets will go.
- Wet timber being allowed to dry before linings go on.
- No cuts or notches in studs and plates beyond what AS 1684 allows, especially where plumbers and electricians have been through.
Our C7 Frame Stage Inspection Checklist walks you through all of this. It's on our checklists page.
Further reading
C7 Timber Frame Checklist ExplainedLearn how the C7 Timber Frame Stage Inspection Checklist supports managing quality for the frame stage of construction. Understand technical terms, issues, and get an thorough understanding of how to manage quality for this stage of construction.Timber vs Steel Framing: Choosing for Your HomeExplore the choice between timber and steel for lightweight framing in home construction. This guide compares their benefits, from environmental impact to cost and durability, helping you make an informed decision for your sustainable, efficient, and aesthetically pleasing home design.
Timber Framing Guide | Key Elements & CodesLearn the fundamentals of timber framing for residential construction in Australia. In this guide we cover sub floor, wall, and roof elements, bracing systems, and building code references.
Australia’s Timber Industry: Key Challenges ExplainedAustralia’s timber industry is facing long-term challenges and short-term pressures. From falling native hardwood supply to uncertain plantation returns, we break down what the latest report means for your new home build—and whether there’s enough timber to go around.
