Brick Veneer Facades for Australian Homes

Brick veneer is a single skin of brick on the outside of a timber or steel frame. The frame holds the house up; the brick is the weatherproof, good-looking outer shell. It has been a staple of Australian housing for decades because it's durable, low maintenance and cheaper than double brick.

Every part of the wall has a job, from the damp proof course (DPC) that stops moisture rising up the brickwork, to the weep holes that let water drain out of the cavity. Below I cover how it all fits together, what the standards say, and what to look for when you inspect your own build.

What is brick veneer construction?

In solid (double) brick, the brick holds the house up. In brick veneer it doesn't: the frame carries the loads, and the brick is tied back to it with metal ties, with a gap between the two called the cavity.

Benefits of Brick Veneer

Thermal Insulation:

1. Brick on its own isn't much of an insulator. The brick shades the frame and the cavity adds a little resistance, but most of the wall's thermal performance comes from the insulation in the frame and the wall wrap. More on that below.

Cost-Effectiveness:

1. Brick veneer is generally more cost-effective than solid brick construction. It requires fewer materials and less labour, making it a more affordable option for home owners. Additionally, the construction process is faster, reducing overall building time and costs.

Aesthetic Appeal:

1. Brick veneer allows for a wide range of design possibilities. Home owners can choose from various brick colours, textures, and finishes to achieve their desired look. This versatility makes brick veneer a popular choice for those looking to enhance the visual appeal of their homes. Read our article below on different types of masonry construction.

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Moisture Control:

1. The cavity between the brick veneer and the structural frame is designed to manage moisture effectively. This gap prevents water from penetrating the interior of the house, protecting the structural frame from potential damage due to rot or mould.

Common Applications in Australian Homes:

Brick veneer is widely used in residential construction due to its adaptability and performance. It is commonly found in both single and multi-story homes, providing a durable exterior that works well with various architectural styles.

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Elements of Brick Veneer Wall Construction

Damp Proof Course (DPC)

• Purpose: The Damp Proof Course (DPC) is an important element in brick veneer construction that prevents moisture from rising through the wall by capillary action. This horizontal barrier is typically made from a waterproof material and it is installed at the base of the brickwork.
• Materials Used: The DPC can be made from a variety of materials, including polyethylene sheeting, bituminous felt, or even slate in older constructions. The choice of material often depends on the specific requirements of the building site and local regulations.

Weep Holes

• Function: Weep holes are small openings left in the external brickwork to allow moisture that accumulates in the cavity between the brick veneer and the structural frame to escape. This is essential for preventing water from building up and causing damage to the internal structure.
• Placement and Frequency: Weep holes are typically placed above the DPC, at the bottom of the brick veneer, and at regular intervals along the wall. They should be positioned every 1.2 metres horizontally to ensure effective drainage.

• Bushfire protection: in bushfire-prone areas an open weep hole is a doorway for embers.
• The Weepa system: Weepa ember guards sit in the weep holes and keep embers out of the cavity while still letting water drain.
• Alternatives: stainless steel mesh covers and other bushfire-rated weep hole inserts do the same job. AS 3959 requires weep holes and vents to be screened with corrosion-resistant mesh (2mm maximum aperture) or a compliant ember guard.
• When it's required: if your block has a bushfire overlay (checked at pre-lodgement or in your own council search), it gets a bushfire attack level (BAL) rating and ember protection becomes mandatory. It matters because an ember can be drawn into the cavity by pressure differences, or simply by the wind blowing the wrong way at the wrong time.

Mastering Mortar Mixes: Key to Successful Masonry Mortar

This article covers the essential balance of cement, lime, and sand needed for a strong, durable mortar. It discusses the role of water, admixtures like plasticizers, and advanced techniques to enhance mortar strength. Learn how to achieve the perfect consistency for your masonry projects.

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Mortar Strength and Composition

• Mortar Strength: The strength of the mortar used in brick veneer construction is required for the structural integrity of the facade. Mortar is typically composed of cement, lime, and sand, with the mix proportions adjusted to achieve the desired strength. For most brick veneer applications, a standard mortar mix is used, providing sufficient strength to hold the bricks together and resist external forces such as wind and rain.
• Composition and Mix: The most common mortar mix for brick veneer consists of one part cement, one part lime, and six parts sand (1:1:6). This mix provides a balance of strength, workability, and durability. However, the exact mix may vary depending on the specific requirements of the project and the type of bricks being used (the IRA or initial rate of absorption affects the mortar mix).
• Standards: mortar must comply with AS 3700 and AS 4773. Under the QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide, visible holes or voids in mortar joints (other than weep holes and vents) are a defect. Report them to your builder in writing within the 12-month defects period.

The mortar scratch test

1. Choose a discreet spot. Pick an out-of-the-way joint, low on the wall or in a corner, so any mark won't be noticed.
2. Scratch it. Take a metal object such as a screwdriver or nail (or a MortarCheck 2 tool) and draw it across the face of the joint with light pressure.
3. Read the result. Good mortar is hard. You might leave a light mark, but it shouldn't crumble or gouge. If it powders, crumbles or scratches out easily, the mix may have been too weak or it hasn't cured properly.

Considerations:

• Timing: do the test once the mortar has cured, about 28 days. Test earlier and it may still be gaining strength, which gives a misleading result.
• Lab testing: the scratch test is only a quick indicator. If you have real concerns, a sample can be sent to a lab for compressive strength testing.

Mortar Colours

• Colour Choices: The colour of the mortar can significantly influence the overall appearance of a brick veneer façade. Mortar colours can range from standard grey to white, buff, or even coloured options, allowing you to match the mortar with the brickwork for a cohesive look.
• Common Mortar Colours: Natural (Grey) is the most common mortar colour, but other popular choices include off white, which blends well with lighter bricks, and white, which provides a sharp contrast with darker bricks. Coloured mortars are also available and are often used to create a specific aesthetic effect.
• Blending and matching: when repairing or extending brickwork, the new mortar should match the existing colour as closely as possible, because an obvious mismatch can be treated as a defect. A perfect match is hard in repair work, so blending the mixes or using natural breaks like windows and doors helps hide the difference.

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Cavity Cleanliness and Purpose

• Why Cleanliness Matters: The cavity between the brick veneer and the structural frame is important for moisture management. If this cavity becomes blocked with mortar droppings or debris, it can trap moisture, leading to potential issues such as mould growth or structural damage.
• Cavity widths: the cavity is typically around 50mm (40mm minimum, see below). It's there for drainage, so it must stay clear. Insulation belongs in the frame, not in the cavity.
• Tolerances: cavity widths outside the allowed tolerance are a defect under the QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide. Check the cavity is clear of mortar droppings while the bricklayers are still on site; it's far harder to fix once the wall is finished.

Minimum Cavity Width:

The minimum width for a cavity in brick veneer construction, according to Australian standards, is generally 40mm. This width is considered sufficient to allow for proper drainage and to accommodate ties between the inner structural wall and the outer brick veneer. However, in practice, the cavity is often designed to be wider, typically around 50mm to 60mm, to ensure that any mortar or debris does not obstruct the cavity's drainage function.

When closing a cavity, for example, at window sills or door heads, the closing must be properly detailed to ensure that moisture is directed out of the cavity via weep holes or other drainage provisions, rather than being allowed to bridge into the internal wall structure. In bushfire-prone areas, additional care must be taken to ensure that ember guards or similar measures are installed when closing cavities to prevent ember entry.

Sill Bricks

• Function and Design: Sill bricks are used at the base of windows and other openings to direct water away from the structure. They are typically laid with a slight slope to ensure water drains away from the window or door, preventing water ingress.
• Shrinkage allowance: timber frames shrink and settle after construction, so a gap must be left between the underside of the window frame and the sill bricks. Without it, the frame can come down onto the sill and crack or dislodge the bricks.

Joint Types and Finishes

• Types of Joints: The joints between bricks can be finished in several ways, including flush, raked, struck, and weather-struck joints. Each type has a different visual effect and performance characteristic. For example, raked joints create deep shadows and are often used for a more pronounced appearance, while flush joints are more subtle and better at shedding water.

• Best Practices: The choice of joint type should be based on both visual preference and practical considerations. For example, in areas with high rainfall, flush or weather-struck joints may be preferable because they are better at directing water away from the wall. Additionally, all joints should be uniform in depth and finish to meet both aesthetic and structural requirements.
• Vertical Alignment: Maintaining vertical alignment in brick courses is important for both the appearance and structural integrity of the wall. Misaligned joints can weaken the wall and detract from its visual appeal. According to VBA guidelines, a maximum deviation of 20mm per 2m height is allowed.
• Joint depth: joints, especially raked joints, should be consistent in depth and finish. Raking shouldn't exceed 10mm unless otherwise specified, and inconsistent joint depth or finish can be a defect that needs fixing.

Cavity Ties

• Purpose and Placement: Cavity ties are metal connectors used to anchor the brick veneer to the structural frame. They provide stability and help prevent the brickwork from collapsing or moving away from the frame.
• Strength Ratings: Cavity ties come in various strength ratings, including light, medium, and heavy-duty options. The choice of tie depends on the height of the wall, the wind load, and other structural considerations.

Expansion Joints

• Need for Expansion Joints: Expansion joints are essential in brick veneer construction to accommodate movement caused by thermal expansion, moisture changes, and structural settlement. Without these joints, the brickwork could crack or become distorted.
• Spacing guidelines: expansion joints are placed at regular intervals, typically every 6 to 9 metres, depending on the wall length and the type of brick. Your structural engineer sets the locations (using the site and soil test data), and they should be shown on your floor plan and elevations.
• Articulation joints: a type of movement joint designed for larger movement. They are especially important on reactive soils (class H sites, or class P sites with fill; your soil test report gives the class) or where the building sees big temperature swings.
• Sealing and detailing: expansion and articulation joints must be kept free of mortar and properly sealed. Where an articulation joint sits next to a window, it should run up through the brick sill to the window frame. I often see them stopped short, which is not correct.

Articulation Joints

• Purpose: Articulation joints manage structural movement, especially in reactive soil conditions where the ground may expand and contract significantly.
• Placement and Sealing: Proper placement and sealing of articulation joints are crucial to prevent moisture ingress and to ensure the structural integrity of the brickwork.
• Slip Joints: Slip joints are used within articulation joints to allow for vertical movement while preventing lateral movement. They are particularly important at points where the brickwork intersects with other materials, such as at the top of a wall or around windows.

Sealing of Articulation Joints

Materials and Methods:

Articulation joints are important in brick veneer construction, especially in areas with reactive soils where movement due to expansion, contraction, or settling is common. These joints allow the building to move without causing cracks or structural damage to the brickwork. Properly sealing these joints ensures they perform their intended function while also preventing moisture ingress.

• Flexible Sealants: The most commonly used materials for sealing articulation joints are flexible sealants. These sealants are designed to accommodate movement while maintaining a watertight seal. Silicone and polyurethane-based sealants are popular choices due to their flexibility, durability, and resistance to UV radiation.
• Colour matching: match the sealant colour to the adjacent brickwork as closely as you can so the joints blend in. A sealant that clashes with the brickwork is a common defect item, so agree the colour before it goes on.
• Backer Rods: Before applying the sealant, a backer rod is often inserted into the joint. The backer rod provides a base for the sealant to adhere to, ensuring the sealant fills the joint properly and maintains its elasticity over time. It also helps control the depth of the sealant, ensuring it is applied consistently. A sealant depth of 2:1 (width to depth) is the general rule of thumb to ensure the sealant has the correct bond for optimum joint elasticity and achieves long term performance.

Long-Term Maintenance:

Over time, the sealant in articulation joints may degrade due to exposure to the elements, including UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, and moisture. Regular inspections are recommended to check for signs of wear, such as cracking, shrinking, or peeling. If any of these issues are observed, the sealant should be removed and replaced to maintain the joint’s effectiveness.

• Re-sealing: When re-sealing articulation joints, it’s important to completely remove the old sealant before applying the new one. This ensures a strong bond and prevents moisture from seeping in behind the new sealant. Using a sealant remover or a sharp tool can help in carefully extracting the old material. Before resealing, re align or replace the backing rod to ensure the correct joint width to depth ratio is achieved (2:1 generally) and so that you do not use more adhesive than you need to (saves money and time).
• Regular Inspection: Home owners should inspect the articulation joints at least once a year, especially after extreme weather events like heavy rain or excessive dry periods. Early detection of sealant failure can prevent more significant issues, such as water ingress/mould or structural movement, which could lead to costly repairs.

Brick Construction and Materials

Types of Bricks Used:

In brick veneer construction, the choice of brick is critical as it not only defines the aesthetic appeal of the façade but also contributes to the overall durability and performance of the wall. The most commonly used bricks in Australia include:

1. Clay Bricks: These are the most traditional type of bricks, known for their durability, thermal efficiency, and resistance to weathering. Clay bricks are available in a wide range of colours and finishes, making them a popular choice for various architectural styles.
2. Concrete Bricks: Concrete bricks are made from a mixture of cement, sand, and aggregates. They are often used where a more uniform appearance is desired or where specific structural requirements must be met. Concrete bricks are also available in different colours and textures, though they may not have the same long-term colour retention as clay bricks.
3. Calcium Silicate Bricks: These bricks are made from a mixture of sand, lime, and pigments. They are less commonly used in residential construction but offer excellent dimensional accuracy and a smooth finish, making them ideal for certain design aesthetics.

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Modern Brick Finishes:

The finish of a brick veneer façade can significantly impact the overall appearance of the building. Modern brick finishes available in the Australian market include:

1. Smooth Face: A smooth-faced brick offers a clean, contemporary look. This finish is achieved by pressing the brick during manufacturing, giving it a sleek surface that is easy to clean and maintain.
2. Textured Face: Textured bricks have an uneven surface, providing a more rustic and natural appearance. This finish is popular in designs that aim to blend with the natural environment or mimic historical styles.
3. Glazed Bricks: Glazed bricks feature a ceramic coating applied during the firing process, giving them a shiny, glass-like surface. These bricks are often used as accents in modern designs due to their vibrant colours and reflective quality.
4. Sanded or Tumbled Finish: These finishes give bricks a weathered, aged appearance. Sanded bricks have a rougher surface with added sand in the mix, while tumbled bricks are distressed to create a rustic look. Both finishes are popular in heritage-style homes and in designs aiming for a timeless aesthetic.

Cleaning of Brickwork (Acid Washing)

Purpose of Acid Washing:

Acid washing is a common method used to clean brickwork after construction to remove mortar smears, stains, and other debris that may have adhered to the bricks during the building process. The primary purpose of acid washing is to ensure that the brick veneer façade has a clean, uniform appearance, free from unsightly marks that can detract from the overall aesthetic of the building.

• When to Perform Acid Washing: Acid washing is typically performed shortly after the mortar has cured but before any other finishing work, such as sealing or painting, is done. The timing is important because the longer the mortar stains remain on the bricks, the harder they become to remove.

Considerations:

While acid washing is effective, it must be done with care to avoid damaging the brickwork or surrounding materials. The acid used is usually a diluted solution of hydrochloric acid, which is strong enough to dissolve mortar stains but can also etch the surface of the bricks or harm nearby surfaces if not properly controlled.

• Impact on Metals: Acid washing can corrode metal components, such as window frames, door hardware, or cavity ties, if they come into contact with the acid. It’s essential to protect these elements by covering them with plastic sheeting or another barrier before starting the acid washing process.
• Effect on finishes: some bricks, especially light-coloured ones, can stain (vanadium or iron staining) if they're acid washed, and some finishes can be damaged. Check the brick maker's cleaning instructions first, then test on a small hidden area. If the test shows any problem, use another cleaning method.

Best Practices:

To safely and effectively perform acid washing, the following best practices should be observed:

1. Pre-wet the wall: hose the brickwork down thoroughly before any acid goes on, so the brick doesn't soak the acid up. Skipping this step causes most acid burn and staining.
2. Dilution: always dilute the hydrochloric acid according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically 1 part acid to 10 parts water. Add acid to water (never water to acid) to control the reaction and reduce splashes.
3. Protection: Wear protective gear, including gloves, goggles, and long sleeves, to avoid skin and eye contact with the acid. Ensure that the work area is well-ventilated to prevent inhalation of fumes.
4. Application: Use a stiff brush or spray to apply the acid solution to the brickwork. Start from the top and work your way down, applying the solution evenly across the surface. Avoid letting the acid sit on the bricks for too long—typically, a few minutes is sufficient to dissolve the mortar stains.
5. Rinsing: Thoroughly rinse the brickwork with clean water after the acid has done its job. This step is crucial to neutralise the acid and wash away any remaining residue. Failing to rinse properly can leave the acid on the bricks, causing long-term damage.
6. Disposal: Properly dispose of any leftover acid solution and rinse water according to local environmental regulations. Never pour acid waste into storm drains or onto the ground, as it can harm the environment.

Standards & Tolerances

Mortar smears and stains left on the face of the brickwork are a common defect item. Check the clean-down closely before handover.

Common problems and fixes

When the parts of a brick veneer wall aren't built to work together, these are the problems that show up.

• Moisture Penetration:
  • If the DPC is not correctly installed or if weep holes become blocked, moisture can penetrate the structural frame, leading to rot, mould, and other moisture-related problems. Regular inspections and maintenance of the DPC and weep holes can prevent these issues.
• Cracking:
  • Cracks in the brick veneer can occur if expansion and articulation joints are not properly placed or if the mortar is too strong and rigid. To prevent cracking, ensure that joints are spaced according to local building codes and that the mortar mix is appropriate for the brick type and environmental conditions.
• Structural Movement:
  • If cavity ties are not adequately spaced or if they are installed incorrectly, the brick veneer may detach from the structural frame, leading to bowing or collapse. To address this, ensure that cavity ties are installed according to the manufacturer’s specifications and that they are properly anchored to both the brickwork and the frame.
• Mortar bridging: mortar droppings that build up in the cavity connect the brick to the frame. Water then crosses the gap and wets the frame, and blocked weep holes can't drain it away. Keep the cavity clean during construction. (This isn't thermal bridging, which is heat flowing through conductive parts like steel studs.)

Tolerances in Masonry Construction

Horizontal and Vertical Tolerances:

Tolerances are how far the brickwork is allowed to be out from the plans, and from plumb, level and straight. In Queensland the QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide sets them, drawing on AS 3700 and AS 4773.

• Horizontal Position: The horizontal position of masonry elements, as documented or shown in the plan at their base or at each storey level, should not deviate more than 15mm from the specified position. This ensures that the wall aligns properly with other structural elements and maintains its intended appearance.
• Vertical Alignment (Plumb): The vertical alignment of a wall, also known as plumb, is critical for the stability of the structure. The maximum deviation allowed from a vertical line within a storey is the lesser of 10mm per 3m of height or 0.05 times the thickness of the wall leaf. For the total height of a building, the deviation should not exceed 25mm. These tolerances ensure that the wall does not lean or bow, which could compromise its structural integrity.
• Surface Flatness and Plumb: The flatness of masonry surfaces and the plumb (vertical alignment) of the wall must be within specific tolerances to avoid unsightly bulges or indentations. The maximum horizontal or vertical deviation of a surface from a plane surface (bow) in any 2m length should not exceed 5mm for structural elements and 3mm for non-structural elements. These tolerances help maintain the wall’s aesthetic appeal and prevent potential structural issues.
• Bed Joint Thickness: The bed joint, which is the horizontal mortar joint between bricks, must be consistent in thickness. The deviation from the documented thickness of the bed joint should not exceed 3mm. Additionally, the minimum perpend (vertical joint between bricks) thickness should be 5mm, with a maximum deviation of 10mm. Ensuring consistent joint thicknesses contributes to the overall stability and appearance of the wall.

How big is your crack?

Cracks in brickwork worry most owners, and fair enough. Here's a rough guide to what's minor and what needs investigating. If cracking appears in a new home, report it to your builder in writing during the defects period (12 months under the QBCC contracts). Don't wait to see if it settles.

Crack damage in walls is usually assessed against the damage categories in AS 2870 (Residential slabs and footings), along with the QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide. Width is the main measure, but location, pattern and whether the crack is still moving matter just as much.

Usually minor

1. Hairline Cracks (Less than 1mm Wide):

• Description: Hairline cracks are very fine cracks that are typically less than 1mm wide. These cracks often occur in the mortar joints rather than the bricks themselves and are usually the result of normal settling or minor thermal expansion and contraction.
• What to do: these are generally cosmetic and don't affect the wall's structure. Leave them or fill them with a flexible sealant. In a new home, still list them in writing with your defects.

2. Minor Cracks in Mortar Joints (1mm to 5mm Wide):

• Description: Minor cracks in the mortar joints that are between 1mm and 5mm wide are usually caused by slight movement in the structure, such as shrinkage of materials or minor ground settlement.
• What to do: AS 2870 classes these as slight damage. They can often be fixed by repointing, but they need monitoring; if they widen or new cracks appear, get them investigated. In a new home, report them to the builder in writing during the defects period rather than assuming they're acceptable.

Needs investigating

1. Moderate to Severe Cracks in Mortar Joints (Greater than 5mm Wide):

• Description: Cracks in mortar joints that are wider than 5mm are considered moderate to severe. These cracks often indicate significant movement in the structure, such as settlement, foundation issues, or improper installation of expansion joints.
• Unacceptability: Cracks of this size are typically unacceptable as they can compromise the structural integrity of the wall. Immediate investigation is required to identify the underlying cause. Repairs may involve repointing the mortar joints, addressing the root cause of the movement (such as foundation stabilisation), and possibly installing additional expansion joints.

2. Cracks in Bricks (Any Size):

• Description: Cracks that appear directly in the bricks themselves, rather than in the mortar joints, are usually a sign of more serious structural issues. These cracks can range from hairline to wide cracks and often indicate excessive movement or stress in the wall.
• Unacceptability: Any crack in the bricks, regardless of size, is generally considered unacceptable. Cracked bricks can weaken the wall’s structural integrity, lead to moisture ingress, and reduce the facade’s overall durability. Depending on the severity, repairs may involve replacing the cracked bricks and addressing the underlying cause, such as poor drainage, inadequate support, or foundation problems.

3. Stepped Cracks Along Mortar Joints:

• Description: Stepped cracks follow the mortar joints in a stair-step pattern, often extending vertically and horizontally across the wall. These cracks are typically associated with significant structural movement, such as differential settlement or reactive soil conditions.
• Unacceptability: Stepped cracks are considered unacceptable, particularly if they are wide or extensive. They indicate that the wall is experiencing uneven movement, which can lead to further cracking, structural failure, or even collapse if not addressed. Professional assessment and repairs are required, potentially including foundation stabilisation or wall reinforcement.

4. Vertical Cracks at Corners or Around Openings:

• Description: Vertical cracks that appear at the corners of walls or around openings (such as windows and doors) are often caused by differential movement or inadequate support at these points. These cracks can widen over time and may indicate that the wall is under stress.
• Unacceptability: Vertical cracks of this nature are typically unacceptable because they suggest that the structure is not accommodating movement as it should. Repairs may involve installing additional articulation joints, reinforcing the affected areas, and addressing any underlying issues contributing to the movement.

Assessing Cracks

Monitoring and Documentation:

• If cracks are observed, it’s important to monitor them over time to determine whether they are stable or worsening. Documenting the size, location, and pattern of cracks can help in assessing the severity and identifying potential causes.

Professional Inspection:

• For any crack that concerns you, especially the ones in this section, talk to a structural engineer or building surveyor. They can assess it properly and recommend a fix.

Repair and Maintenance:

• Regular maintenance, including repointing mortar joints and sealing minor cracks, can help prevent more serious issues from developing. For more severe cracks, repairs may involve structural interventions, such as underpinning foundations or reinforcing walls.

Thermal Performance and Insulation

Wall insulation is a big part of your home's energy rating. Under NCC 2022, most new homes need a 7-star NatHERS rating, so the walls have to pull their weight.

Where the insulation goes

Insulation goes in the frame, not in the cavity. Typically that means bulk batts between the studs and a wall wrap (often reflective) on the outside of the frame. A reflective wrap facing the cavity adds a little extra R-value because of the still air gap. The cavity itself must stay clear so water can drain to the weep holes. Choose insulation to suit your climate zone and the NCC energy efficiency requirements. Read more about wall wrap and insulation in the posts below:

Reflective Wrap Issues in Construction: A Call for ClarityExplore the problematic ambiguity of ‘reflective wrap’ in residential construction. This article highlights how vague terminology allows builders to avoid responsibility, leading to inadequate insulation and waterproofing, and stresses the need for specific, accountable building practices.Wall Wrap Installation: Adhering to Australian StandardsLearn the right way to install wall wrap according to Australian Standards. This guide explains the proper sequence for installing windows, doors, and wall wrap, highlighting the importance of correct installation for maintaining the building envelope and enhancing your home’s energy efficiency.Maximizing Home Comfort with Bulk Insulation: Key BenefitsDiscover the benefits of using bulk insulation in your home. This article highlights how bulk insulation improves energy efficiency, comfort levels, and protects against weather damage, while also increasing your property’s value and contributing to environmental sustainability.Mastering Energy Efficiency: Air Sealing & Insulation TipsBuilding an energy-efficient home is more than just a trend; it’s a responsibility. Dive into the intricacies of air sealing, insulation, and the importance of thermal mass. Discover how these elements can drastically reduce energy consumption and promote sustainability.

Insulation Material Selection:

Common choices are bulk insulation (glasswool or polyester batts) between the studs and a reflective wall wrap, sometimes with rigid foam board on the outside of the frame. Reflective products work best against radiant heat in hot climates, while bulk insulation does the heavy lifting in cooler ones.

Fire Resistance in Brick Veneer Construction

Fire resistance matters most in bushfire-prone areas. Your block's bushfire attack level (BAL), worked out at the design stage, sets what AS 3959 (Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas) requires.

Bricks, mortar and embers

Brick doesn't burn, which makes it a good choice in bushfire-prone areas. AS 3959 doesn't call for a special fire-resistant mortar in brick veneer. What it focuses on is keeping embers out: weep holes and vents screened, and gaps sealed, to suit your site's BAL rating.

Ember guards

Ember guards in weep holes and screened vents stop burning embers being drawn into the cavity. They are a key part of complying with AS 3959.

Durability and Weathering

Durability of Brick and Mortar in Australian Climates:

The durability of brick and mortar in Australian climates is governed by their ability to withstand environmental factors such as UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, and moisture exposure. Australian Standard AS 3700 (Masonry Structures) outlines the requirements for ensuring that masonry materials are durable enough to withstand the specific conditions they will face.

Impact of Coastal Exposure:

Near the coast, salt-laden air attacks bricks and mortar. AS 3700 sets durability grades for bricks (protected, general purpose and exposure) and for mortar, depending on how close you are to the surf or the bay. Make sure your brick and mortar grades suit your exposure; the chart above shows how it's worked out.

Test yourself

Four quick questions on this topic. Click a question to see the answer.

FAQs

Q1: What is the difference between brick veneer and double brick?

• Answer: Brick veneer consists of a single layer of bricks that serves as an exterior facade, with a separate structural frame (usually timber or steel) behind it. Double brick construction, on the other hand, involves two layers of bricks with no separate structural frame. In double brick, both layers contribute to the structural integrity of the building, whereas in brick veneer, the bricks are purely decorative, with the structure relying on the internal frame.

Q2: How often should weep holes be placed in a brick veneer wall?

• Answer: Weep holes should be placed every 1.2 metres horizontally along the base of the brick veneer wall, directly above the damp proof course (DPC). This spacing allows for adequate drainage of any moisture that enters the cavity, helping to prevent water buildup and potential damage to the structural frame.

Q3: Can I choose any colour for the mortar, or are there limitations?

• Answer: While you can choose from a wide range of mortar colours to match or contrast with your bricks, it’s important to consider both aesthetic and practical factors. Mortar colour can affect the overall look of the facade, and in some cases, local building regulations or building covenants may require certain colours for specific types of construction.

Q4: What maintenance does a brick veneer facade require?

• Answer: Regular maintenance of a brick veneer facade includes inspecting the weep holes and ensuring they remain clear of debris, checking the condition of the mortar joints, and inspecting the articulation and expansion joints for signs of wear or damage. Additionally, it’s important to periodically clean the brickwork to remove dirt and stains, using appropriate cleaning methods like acid washing or pressure washing, depending on the type of bricks.

Q5: How do expansion joints prevent damage in brick walls?

• Answer: Expansion joints allow the brickwork to expand and contract in response to temperature changes, moisture content, and structural movement. By providing space for this movement, expansion joints prevent the bricks from cracking or distorting, which can otherwise occur if the wall is rigidly constructed without allowances for expansion.

Q6: Is acid washing necessary for all brick facades?

• Answer: Acid washing is not always necessary, but it is commonly used to remove mortar smears and stains from brick facades after construction. It is particularly useful for cleaning textured or porous bricks where mortar residues can be more challenging to remove. However, if your bricks have a special finish or are particularly sensitive to acid, alternative cleaning methods should be considered.

Q7: What are the signs of poor cavity cleanliness?

• Answer: Signs of poor cavity cleanliness include blocked weep holes, damp patches on the interior walls, and visible mortar droppings at the base of the cavity. These issues can lead to moisture problems, such as mould growth and structural damage, if not addressed. Ensuring the cavity is clean and free of debris during construction is the best way for the long-term performance of a brick veneer wall.

Q8: How can I tell if my brick veneer wall has been properly constructed?

• Answer: Indicators of a well-constructed brick veneer wall include evenly spaced and aligned bricks, consistent mortar joints, properly placed weep holes, and correctly sealed expansion and articulation joints. Additionally, the wall should be free from visible cracks, bowing, or leaning. If you have concerns about the construction quality, a professional inspection by a building surveyor or structural engineer can provide a more detailed assessment.

Q9: What materials are best for sealing articulation joints?

• Answer: The best materials for sealing articulation joints are flexible sealants, such as silicone or polyurethane-based sealants. These materials are durable, UV-resistant, and capable of accommodating the movement of the brickwork without cracking or losing adhesion. The sealant should also match the colour of the surrounding masonry to ensure a seamless appearance.

Q10: What are the risks of not having a damp proof course (DPC)?

• Answer: Without a DPC, moisture from the ground can rise through the brickwork by capillary action, leading to damp problems within the building. This can cause damage to the structural frame, promote mould growth, and result in unsightly and unhealthy conditions inside the home. Installing a DPC is essential to protect the building from these moisture-related issues.

Further Reading

Mastering Mortar Mixes: Key to Successful Masonry MortarThis article covers the essential balance of cement, lime, and sand needed for a strong, durable mortar. It discusses the role of water, admixtures like plasticizers, and advanced techniques to enhance mortar strength. Learn how to achieve the perfect consistency for your masonry projects.Efflorescence on Concrete & Brick: Prevention & TreatmentEfflorescence, the white powdery substance on concrete and brick surfaces, can be a homeowner’s nightmare. Caused by water seeping through and evaporating, it’s not just unsightly but can indicate deeper issues. Dive into understanding its causes, prevention, and effective treatments.Understanding Concrete Laitance: A Homeowner’s GuideLaitance is the weak, milky or powdery layer of cement dust, lime and sand fines that appear on the surface of concrete. Read more about how & why this happens.