Brick looks simple, but there are several very different ways to build with it. Here's what each one means for cost, comfort and maintenance on a Queensland build.
Brick veneer
Brick veneer is by far the most common way brick homes are built in Queensland and across Australia. The house is held up by a timber or steel frame. A single skin of brick sits outside the frame, separated by a cavity and tied to the frame with metal wall ties. The brick is cladding. It doesn't carry the roof or floors.
Pros
- Gives you the look and low maintenance of brick at a lower cost than double brick
- Faster to build, because the frame and roof go up first and the brickwork follows
- Easier to change the layout or renovate later, since internal walls are framed
Cons
- The brick doesn't add to the structure
- Relies on good detailing to manage water: flashings, weep holes and a clear cavity
One common misunderstanding: the cavity behind brick veneer is there to drain water, not to insulate. The real insulation is the batts in the timber or steel frame, so check the R-value on your plans.
Cost: Moderate. Usually the cheapest way to get a brick finish.
Where it suits: Most new homes, especially project homes on standard blocks.
Double brick (cavity brick)
Double brick is two skins of brick with a cavity between them, joined with metal wall ties. Both skins are masonry and the inner skin is structural. When people in Australia talk about a "solid brick" house, they almost always mean cavity brick. True solid brick walls, with no cavity, are rare in modern homes.
Pros
- Very durable, strong and fire resistant
- High thermal mass, which evens out temperature swings
- Good sound insulation between rooms and from outside
- The cavity stops water reaching the inner skin
Cons
- More expensive and slower to build than brick veneer
- Thermal mass alone isn't insulation. Many double brick designs need added insulation or design tweaks to meet the 7-star energy rating now required for most new homes
- Harder to alter later, and running new services means chasing into masonry
Cost: High. More bricks, more labour and a longer build.
Where it suits: Owners who value solidity, sound control and longevity, and are willing to pay for it.
Concrete block
Concrete blocks are larger than bricks and hollow, so they can be reinforced with steel and filled with concrete (core-filled). Engineers like core-filled block for retaining walls, basements, garages and walls with tight access, because it's quick to lay, easy to reinforce and ready for waterproofing or a rendered finish. It's cheaper than precast panels, although slower to install.
Pros
- Strong and cost effective for structural and retaining walls
- Fewer units to lay than brick for the same area
- Good thermal mass and fire resistance
Cons
- Plain block isn't to everyone's taste, so it's usually rendered or painted
- Needs added insulation to meet energy requirements in habitable rooms
- Retaining walls need proper waterproofing and drainage behind them
Cost: Lower than brick for structural walls. Rendering adds cost.
Where it suits: Retaining walls, basements, garages, sloping sites and rendered modern designs.
High-strength and engineered bricks
Some bricks are made for extra strength and low water absorption. They're used where walls carry high loads or face harsh conditions, such as retaining walls, sills and below damp-proof course.
In Queensland, the real durability issue isn't frost, it's salt and moisture. On coastal sites, AS 3700 sets tougher durability requirements for bricks, mortar and wall ties. If you're building near the coast, ask your builder to confirm the bricks are the right salt-attack grade and the ties suit the exposure.
Cost: Higher than standard face bricks, and some ranges need ordering in.
Sandstone and natural stone
Sandstone blocks and stone cladding give a natural look no manufactured product can copy. In modern homes, stone is more often used as a feature wall or cladding than as the main structure.
Pros
- Unique colour and texture
- Very durable when properly detailed and maintained
Cons
- Expensive to quarry, cut and lay
- Sandstone is porous, so it usually needs sealing to resist staining, moisture and salt damage
Cost: High. Best kept for features where it will be seen and enjoyed.
Less common options
You may come across fly ash bricks and sand lime (calcium silicate) bricks. Both are used overseas but are rare in Queensland housing, so availability and trades experience can be limited. More common local alternatives to clay face brick are rendered block and autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) panels or blocks, such as Hebel, which are lightweight, quick to install and are finished with a render or coating system.
Quick comparison
- Brick veneer: cladding over a frame. Moderate cost. Suits most new homes.
- Double brick: structural masonry. High cost. Suits owners after solidity and sound control.
- Concrete block: structural, usually rendered. Lower to moderate cost. Suits retaining walls, garages, sloping sites.
- High-strength brick: structural or cladding. Higher cost. Suits exposed and high-load areas.
- Sandstone: usually cladding or feature walls. High cost. Suits feature elevations.
- AAC panels: cladding or lightweight walls. Moderate cost. Suits rendered modern designs.
What to check on site
Whichever system you choose, the details matter more than the brick. At enclosed stage, check that weep holes are open and not blocked with mortar, cavities are clean, flashings are in the right places, wall ties are installed and suit your exposure, and brickwork is clean and even. Our C11 Enclosed Stage Inspection Checklist walks you through it.
C11 - Enclosed Stage Inspection Checklist
$119.00 AUD
Last updated 5 Oct 2026 · Revision 1 · Free updates for life
Checklist Type: Major (Enclosed Stage)
Form Factor: Fillable, print-ready PDF (A4, 35 pages)
When to use: Enclosed (lock-up) stage: brickwork and external cladding
A 285-point enclosed stage checklist for brickwork, masonry, fibre cement and foam cladding. Check design, flashings, ties, joints and finish as your home is closed in.
FAQs
Is brick veneer or double brick better?
Neither is better for everyone. Brick veneer is cheaper, quicker and easier to insulate. Double brick is more solid and quieter, but costs more and may need extra insulation to meet energy requirements.
Does brick need maintenance?
Very little. Keep weep holes clear, watch for cracked or eroded mortar joints, and deal with any efflorescence (white salt staining) or moisture early.
Is brick a good choice near the coast?
Yes, if it's specified correctly. Use bricks, mortar and wall ties rated for the exposure under AS 3700, and keep cavities and weep holes clear.
Further reading
Brick Veneer Facades: A Complete Guide for Aussie HomesBrick veneer facades are a popular, durable, and generally low maintenance option for your home façade. In this post we cover all the essential elements and best practices in brick veneer wall construction.
Can You Lay Dirty Bricks? Your Rights ExplainedCan muddy bricks be laid? This post breaks down what the Australian Standards, NCC, and best practices say—and what to do if it’s happened on your build. The answer isn’t as clear-cut as you might expect.
Efflorescence on Concrete & Brick: Prevention & TreatmentEfflorescence, the white powdery substance on concrete and brick surfaces, can be a homeowner’s nightmare. Caused by water seeping through and evaporating, it’s not just unsightly but can indicate deeper issues. Dive into understanding its causes, prevention, and effective treatments.
