Cladding is one of the biggest choices you'll make on the outside of your home. It sets the look, the maintenance bill for the next 30 years and, on some blocks, whether you meet bushfire rules. Here's how the common options stack up, what each one really costs you over time, and what to check before you sign off your selections.
What cladding actually does
Cladding is the outer skin of your walls. Its job is to keep the weather out, protect the frame, and look good doing it. It isn't your insulation. Under NCC 2022, most new homes must achieve 7 stars NatHERS, and in a framed house that comes mainly from insulation in the wall cavity, wall wrap, glazing and design, not from the cladding itself.
Behind every cladding is a system: wall wrap or sarking, flashings around windows and penetrations, and often a cavity so moisture can drain and dry. Most cladding failures I see are installation and flashing problems, not the material.
C11 - Enclosed Stage Inspection Checklist
$119.00 AUD
Last updated 28 Oct 2026 · Revision 6 · Free updates for life
Checklist Type: Major (Enclosed Stage)
Form Factor: Fillable, print-ready PDF (A4, 42 pages)
When to use: Enclosed (lock-up) stage: brickwork and external cladding
A 152-point enclosed stage checklist for brick veneer and fibre cement, weatherboard or foam cladding. Check the cavity, ties, flashings, windows and lintels before the linings hide them.
Brick veneer
Still the default for a lot of Queensland project homes.
- Pros: Very durable, almost no maintenance, good impact resistance, non-combustible and generally suitable for bushfire-prone sites. Plenty of colours, textures and bond patterns.
- Cons: Heavier and slower to lay, and bricklayers are in short supply. Mortar joints can show efflorescence and cracking if movement joints are wrong.
- Energy: Brick has good thermal mass, which evens out temperature swings, but it isn't an insulator. The insulation goes in the frame behind it.
- Watch for: Weep holes kept clear, movement joints where the engineer specified, and clean cavities with no mortar droppings bridging to the frame.
Rendered lightweight panels (AAC and EPS)
Lightweight panels, either autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) or expanded polystyrene (EPS), fixed to the frame and finished with a render system. Popular for a modern, smooth look.
- Pros: Fast to install, lighter than brick, and a clean contemporary finish. AAC is non-combustible.
- Cons: The finish depends entirely on the render system and the installer. Cracking at panel joints and around openings is the most common complaint. Needs repainting over time.
- Watch for: A proprietary system installed exactly to the manufacturer's details, including joint reinforcement, control joints and flashings. Ask for the system's compliance documents. Check EPS products carefully on bushfire-prone sites.
Fibre cement
Fibre cement sheet and weatherboards are made from cement, sand and cellulose fibre. They're one of the most common claddings on Australian homes.
- Pros: Durable, resistant to rot and termites, non-combustible and comes in profiles that mimic timber weatherboards or give a flat, panelised look. Reasonably priced.
- Cons: Must be painted, and repainted every so often. Joints and cut edges need sealing.
- Compressed fibre cement is a thicker, denser fibre cement board, often used for wet areas, decks and feature facades where impact resistance matters.
- Watch for: Correct joint details, flashings at openings and clearance to the ground.
Timber
Weatherboards, shiplap or vertical boards in species such as spotted gum, blackbutt or treated pine.
- Pros: Warm, natural look that suits Queenslander and coastal styles. A renewable material when sourced from well-managed forests.
- Cons: The highest maintenance option. Timber needs paint, stain or oil on a regular cycle to stay protected from moisture and UV, and it can rot or attract termites if poorly detailed. It moves with humidity.
- Watch for: The right durability class and treatment for exposed use, gaps and fixings as per the manufacturer, and good clearance from the ground. On bushfire-prone blocks, only certain species or treated products are allowed, and not at the higher BAL ratings.
Metal
Steel (such as Colorbond profiles), aluminium composite panels or, at the top end, zinc and copper.
- Pros: Light, quick to fix, durable, low maintenance and non-combustible steel suits bushfire-prone sites. Gives a crisp modern or farmhouse look.
- Cons: Dents more easily than masonry. Can be noisy in rain and wind if poorly fixed. Coastal sites need the right coating grade, because salt is hard on metal.
- Watch for: The correct product for your distance from the coast, fixings compatible with the metal (mixing metals causes corrosion), and that composite panels meet NCC fire requirements. Aluminium composite panels with combustible cores have been the subject of major safety concerns on taller buildings, so check what you're getting.
Vinyl
Common in North America but rare on new Australian homes. If someone offers it, ask about UV performance in our climate, fire behaviour and how it's been certified for use here.
Bushfire-prone blocks
If your block is in a bushfire-prone area, your house will have a bushfire attack level (BAL) rating, and the cladding must suit it under AS 3959. Generally:
- Brick, AAC, fibre cement and steel cope well at most BAL ratings.
- Timber and EPS-based systems are restricted, especially at higher ratings.
- At BAL-40 and BAL-FZ, you'll usually need tested systems.
Your designer and certifier will confirm what's acceptable. Get the product's compliance documents before you finalise selections, not after the frame is up.
Maintenance at a glance
- Brick: Almost none. Keep weep holes clear and garden beds below them.
- Rendered panels: Wash occasionally, repaint every 10 years or so, and fix cracks early so water doesn't get in.
- Fibre cement: Repaint on a similar cycle and reseal joints when they open up.
- Timber: Recoat on a short cycle, often every few years for stains and oils, and check for rot and termites.
- Metal: Wash down, especially on the coast and in areas not washed by rain, and touch up scratches.
Whatever you choose, keep soil, mulch and garden beds below the slab edge and weep holes. That's one of the most common defects I see after handover, and it invites both water and termites.
How to choose
Ask yourself:
- What's my budget now, and for maintenance later? A cheap cladding that needs painting every few years isn't cheap.
- What's my site? Coastal, bushfire-prone or exposed sites narrow the field quickly.
- What's the look? Many homes mix two claddings, such as brick on the ground floor with lightweight cladding upstairs.
- What does my builder do well? A material your builder installs every week will usually turn out better than one they're trying for the first time.
- Is it a compliant system? Ask for the documents.
When the cladding goes on, the enclosed stage is the time to check flashings, wall wrap and junctions before they're hidden. My Enclosed Stage checklist above covers it.
Further reading
Choosing the Right Cladding System: Essential Tips & OptionsDiscover key insights on choosing the perfect cladding system for your home. This article covers various materials like timber, metal, and brick, highlighting their pros and cons, and guides you on factors like appearance, durability, cost, and environmental impact to make an informed decision.
Exploring the 8 Types of Brick Masonry in House ConstructionBrick masonry is a popular choice for house construction due to its durability, aesthetics, and flexibility. But did you know there are eight different types of brick masonry that can be used? Each type has its own unique characteristics that make it suitable for different applications.
Efflorescence on Concrete & Brick: Prevention & TreatmentEfflorescence, the white powdery substance on concrete and brick surfaces, can be a homeowner’s nightmare. Caused by water seeping through and evaporating, it’s not just unsightly but can indicate deeper issues. Dive into understanding its causes, prevention, and effective treatments.
